Alright, I have a DW that I cannot diagnose, but i noticed that when I am making a decently sharp turn (like a spinning ramp to get on the HWY) while going up or down a hill, I get a wobbling (down) or binding (going up). I cannot tell if it is from the rear or the front, but it seems like the LSD is trying to make up its mind when going UP and it feels like a left front wheel wobble when going down.

I had my left side (front) u joints, axle and hub replaced when using 4x4 last winter in the snow. So I don't know if the mechanics just did poor work.

After prying and checking everything under my truck for play, the only thing I could find was my PASSNEGER side Ball joints have 1/8 inch of play. When I jack up that side, the wheel pops out about 1/2 an inch and looks out of alignment. But when weight goes back down off the stands it looks good.

Could the ball joint play be the reason? I was thinking tyhat the alignment would be off and maybe the case for the DW I have.

I have replaced the tie rod ends, tracbar, and passenger side ball joints. Balanced tires (twice), rotated tires and checked steering.

The only thing is that I seem to have to keep wheel pressure going to the right slightly because my truck likes to veer left.

Any thoughts?

 

You need two people to check BJ's and hub bearings(which is what it sounds like is the prob. One person to move the wheel and one underneath looking.

 

I had a partner moving the wheel when I was checking the steering box (where the pittman arm attaches to box) and for checking the wheels wheels.

Also, for checking BJs....how do you pry from underneath while the wheel is turning? I checked out the BJs by jacking up the front end and then getting a prybar between the rubber and the road and lifting the tire with the lever to see the play.

So, are my BJs not bad because I checked them the wrong way?

 

If they move an 1/8 inch they are bad. All I was trying to say originally was it's easier to have two people check the front end. But, you already took that approach.

 

Oh ok...I was thinking that I was completely wrong on how to check them. I thought you were joking with me!

Well, I will get those BJs fixed next week. Need to wait until the wife comes back from her trip so I can use her car. I was stuck riding my motorcycle for two days to work, and the 35 mi trip sucks when its raining.

 

You have the stock LSD? Got the friction modifier in the lube??

 

Hmmm...I had the rearend replaced with an auburn LSD. I am wondering if they put the rearend friction modifier in there.

WHat is the worse that can happen if they didn't put that in and I drove about 4000 miles like that?

 

If they did not add the additive that could be your problem, 4000miles and towing, I would pull the diff cover and look for metal.

C/P from the Auburn site manual.

IMPORTANT LUBRICANT NOTE
The Auburn Gear limited-slip differential design has been
extensively tested with high quality non-synthetic 80W90
hypoid oils treated with GM or Ford friction additives (3
oz. of additive will treat 1 quart of oil). To avoid differential
clutch chatter (noise) and for optimum performance, use the
oil and additive described above. Use of other additive and
oil types may cause differential clutch chatter.
Ford Part Number: C8A219B546A
GM Part Number: 1052358

 

I would capture the oil that comes out, and if tehre is any damage - I would be looking at them to repair the damage....

 

I would be SOL because the guys that did the work are in Indiana and i moved to NY.

However, there is no chatter or whining.

I guess i will have to pull both diff covers.