Rear output seal of Xfer case looks like a blown out tater biscuit
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Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
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Rear output seal of Xfer case looks like a blown out tater biscuit
So I'm crawling around under my Ram tonight checking on things since my rear axle bearing debacle, and I happen to notice that the rear of my NP241 is leaking pretty badly at the output seal.. I also noticed that there is a rubber "boot" sticking out of the tailshaft and it appears that maybe I've got way too much slack action going on between the case and the driveshaft (although I couldn't move the shaft in and out by hand). I did a quick google and found this is a common issue. I guess what I need to know is how long can I go on with it like this? If i can keep just topping it off with ATF and nurse it along I'd be happy, but I don't want to cause a major failure of the T-case, and like I said, it looks like the damn thing has a prolapse going on.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
the rubber boot is just that, a boot, and not the actual sealing surface.
i replace my leaky seal with a National brand which didn't have the boot, but did have a cavity for it. so i just moved the boot from the old one to the new, and glued it in with a little rtv.
provided you keep your tcase full, you can run it with a leak forever. but, its easy to change, just drop the drive shaft, remove the old seal. tap in the new. install drive shaft.
the drive shaft to t-case output shaft is a splined slip joint, so its supposed to have a little bit of play so it can slide in/out as the truck goes up/down. (sort of like your wife, but with splines
)
i replace my leaky seal with a National brand which didn't have the boot, but did have a cavity for it. so i just moved the boot from the old one to the new, and glued it in with a little rtv.
provided you keep your tcase full, you can run it with a leak forever. but, its easy to change, just drop the drive shaft, remove the old seal. tap in the new. install drive shaft.
the drive shaft to t-case output shaft is a splined slip joint, so its supposed to have a little bit of play so it can slide in/out as the truck goes up/down. (sort of like your wife, but with splines
)
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,483
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Yeah, replace the seal. Not really too bad of a job.
You aren't going to be able to move the d-shaft in and out by hand much, if it is still bolted to the rear diff.
Side to side or up and down slop is what would be concerning.
You aren't going to be able to move the d-shaft in and out by hand much, if it is still bolted to the rear diff.
Side to side or up and down slop is what would be concerning.
Champion
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,574
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg,PA
the rubber boot is just that, a boot, and not the actual sealing surface.
i replace my leaky seal with a National brand which didn't have the boot, but did have a cavity for it. so i just moved the boot from the old one to the new, and glued it in with a little rtv.
provided you keep your tcase full, you can run it with a leak forever. but, its easy to change, just drop the drive shaft, remove the old seal. tap in the new. install drive shaft.
the drive shaft to t-case output shaft is a splined slip joint, so its supposed to have a little bit of play so it can slide in/out as the truck goes up/down. (sort of like your wife, but with splines )
i replace my leaky seal with a National brand which didn't have the boot, but did have a cavity for it. so i just moved the boot from the old one to the new, and glued it in with a little rtv.
provided you keep your tcase full, you can run it with a leak forever. but, its easy to change, just drop the drive shaft, remove the old seal. tap in the new. install drive shaft.
the drive shaft to t-case output shaft is a splined slip joint, so its supposed to have a little bit of play so it can slide in/out as the truck goes up/down. (sort of like your wife, but with splines
)That made me lol hahahaaha
