Large steering box leak (seal)
I have a large power steering fluid leak. It is coming from the shaft that the pitman arm is attached to. I can pretty easily tell that it is coming from a seal on the pitman arm shaft. I know I have to replace it. And I know the seal is super cheap. My question is: how hard is the seal to replace? It looks pretty involved. I know at least the pitman arm has to come off, but does the steering box have to come out? Anyone who has replaced this seal I would love to hear from. Advice, pointers, anything. Thanks.
Does this help I got this off http://www.alldatadiy.com
You should join the site you get all the recalls and service info for you truck there plus blow ups of everything under the sun.
PITMAN SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Clean exposed end of pitman shaft and housing with a wire brush.
2. Remove preload adjuster nut.
3. Rotate the stub shaft with a 12 point socket from stop to stop and count the number of turns.
4. Center the stub shaft by rotating it from the stop L/2 of the total amount of turns.
5. Remove side cover bolts and remove side cover, gasket and pitman shaft as an assembly. NOTE: The pitman shaft will not clear the housing if it is not centered.
6. Remove pitman shaft from the side cover.
7. Remove dust seal from the housing with a seal pick. CAUTION: Use care not to score the housing bore when prying out seals and washer.
8. Remove retaining ring with snap ring pliers.
9. Remove washer from the housing.
10. Remove oil seal from the housing with a seal pick.
11.Remove pitman shaft bearing from housing with a bearing driver and handle.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/E28308FA5A0E4CA2A18101423B2176D8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/55BE1FB28EFB472F895E5F09F5F0B1E0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/B15B634512A343E9B605E40ECC2F2FE2.jpg[/IMG]
You should join the site you get all the recalls and service info for you truck there plus blow ups of everything under the sun.
PITMAN SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Clean exposed end of pitman shaft and housing with a wire brush.
2. Remove preload adjuster nut.
3. Rotate the stub shaft with a 12 point socket from stop to stop and count the number of turns.
4. Center the stub shaft by rotating it from the stop L/2 of the total amount of turns.
5. Remove side cover bolts and remove side cover, gasket and pitman shaft as an assembly. NOTE: The pitman shaft will not clear the housing if it is not centered.
6. Remove pitman shaft from the side cover.
7. Remove dust seal from the housing with a seal pick. CAUTION: Use care not to score the housing bore when prying out seals and washer.
8. Remove retaining ring with snap ring pliers.
9. Remove washer from the housing.
10. Remove oil seal from the housing with a seal pick.
11.Remove pitman shaft bearing from housing with a bearing driver and handle.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/E28308FA5A0E4CA2A18101423B2176D8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/55BE1FB28EFB472F895E5F09F5F0B1E0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/B15B634512A343E9B605E40ECC2F2FE2.jpg[/IMG]
Great! Thanks for all that, it will help immensly! Definitly looks like I gotta take it out and totally break it down. Hopefully I can just buy a rebuild kit and have at it. Hopefully I won't be down too long.
Ok, got the rebuild kit, removed the steering gear, (steering box, whatever you want to call it) replaced all the parts from the kit, reassembled it, and reinstalled it. Before doing this job, it leaked a drip every 2 and a half seconds. (I timed it) Now it's at zero drips every 13 hours and counting. Thanks for all you're help zeekxxx, it really did help. I do have a concern though. I don't think it will last long. The pitman shaft had two worn and pitted rings on it where the two seals ride. I think some contamination got in it between the seals and shaft and that is why it leaked. Anyway, it doesn't leak, but that roughness is definitly going to prematurely wear the new seals. I may have to replace that pitman shaft someday. I will wait and see how long the seals hold up. They are only $12.
Yup your going to have a seal that wears quicker than others. Start looking around for a new part. Its kind of like slapping pads on a non-cut rotor. They work but dont last nearly as long.
Glad the info helped.
I would have smoothed it out with some super fine sandpaper.
Glad the info helped.
I would have smoothed it out with some super fine sandpaper.
I hit it with some 1000 grit paper and buffed it up good. I also have a spare set of seals for when I do the shaft. I figured $12 is ok to sacrifice to get me back together so I could get to work today while I look for the new shaft.







