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ac compressor

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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #21  
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Umm, the AC will always leak(condensation) out the drain hole when used.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:15 PM
  #22  
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Yeh I know. After blowing air in the drain hole, the water really ran out good like it should and the air flow increased out the vents. Air temp gradually got much cooler by 20 F. It only helped for a day though. Mechanic told me if to much water builds up in the evap core and can't drain, it will also shut the compressor down. Any merit to that? Just want to get thru the hot days until get a newer truck. After reading plenty of threads seems the only real cure is replacing the cores.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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Water may freeze in there... if it gets that cold, but, aside from that..... shouldn't matter.

You might be able to pull the blower motor, and get in there with a shop vac.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ReadRam
Yeh I know. After blowing air in the drain hole, the water really ran out good like it should and the air flow increased out the vents. Air temp gradually got much cooler by 20 F. It only helped for a day though. Mechanic told me if to much water builds up in the evap core and can't drain, it will also shut the compressor down. Any merit to that? Just want to get thru the hot days until get a newer truck. After reading plenty of threads seems the only real cure is replacing the cores.
The HVAC box is clogged with debris and needs to be cleaned out, that's why it wont drain.(pine needles and leaves) going in the cowl. The evap core and heater core should be replaced as well, when you decide to open it up. One of these will help big time in the future. http://www.genosgarage.com/CAB-FRESH.../CFF-DG-0610K/
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #25  
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Going to pull blower motor and try getting vac hose in there. I had heater core replaced about 5 years ago and would've had the evap core done had i known, since dash was already off. Blew some more air in the drain hole today with air compressor attachment and put a 90 degree boot over the hole so its pointing down and hopefully create some vacuum when driving to help water drain out. Been holding okay today. Appreciate your help,always.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Black wire with white trace is ground. It should ALWAYS be grounded. Wire goes from compressor connector, to Splice 122, (unfortunately, back of motor, just to the passenger side of distributor.) from there to Ground 105. (at the power steering unit, front of engine.)
I have ground at the black/white wire at the connector,but no power at the connector. I have both high and low switches jumped,no power at ac clutch still. Also, the resistance through the clutch is only 15 ohms....
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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Not sure what value the clutch should be.... (couldn't find it easily....)

If you aren't getting power to the connector there, check the relay. If you can jump the relay, and the compressor runs..... may be something in the control circuit that is failing.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #28  
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So I got tired of f-in around with relays and fuses(all seem ok)But still not seeing any power at the ac compressor plug. So I ran wires directly from the connector at the compressor to the battery to kick on the ac clutch,but no response-shouldn't this kick in the clutch if it is not shorted out?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #29  
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Did you apply power and ground to the clutch side of the connector?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Did you apply power and ground to the clutch side of the connector?
Yes,I had just a little spark at the connection,but no movement on the clutch.
I tested the continuity of the wires going to the clutch, and got a reading of 15 ohms.
 
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