Finally Registered
#1
Finally Registered
Hello everyone,
I have finally registered here even though i have read many posts and gotten lots of good info over the last 2 years. I have a 97 ram 318 club 4x4 137k. Its primary issue is it does not like to roll on its own. It needs encouragement using the accelerator.
Myself i have been working on cars for almost twenty years now. (wow really its been that long, huh) I started with chrysler in 93 worked there until 98. So hopfully i will be able to contribute to things as well.
My truck i have only owned for a couple years now, My first dodge truck actually.
I have been through all the brakes and bearings, r&r rt ft axle seal. Fixed the od buck (vacuum leak at hose). Verified last owner did replace the 9.25 posi correctly. Various other small repairs. Did replace a ujoint, but still havent found whats not letting it roll. My next step is to pressure check the transmission, and service it with a band adjustment. Just wanted to get input from others who may be able to shed light on any possible issues before opening the trans. The trans works perfectly, no problems there except maybe a converter.
I have finally registered here even though i have read many posts and gotten lots of good info over the last 2 years. I have a 97 ram 318 club 4x4 137k. Its primary issue is it does not like to roll on its own. It needs encouragement using the accelerator.
Myself i have been working on cars for almost twenty years now. (wow really its been that long, huh) I started with chrysler in 93 worked there until 98. So hopfully i will be able to contribute to things as well.
My truck i have only owned for a couple years now, My first dodge truck actually.
I have been through all the brakes and bearings, r&r rt ft axle seal. Fixed the od buck (vacuum leak at hose). Verified last owner did replace the 9.25 posi correctly. Various other small repairs. Did replace a ujoint, but still havent found whats not letting it roll. My next step is to pressure check the transmission, and service it with a band adjustment. Just wanted to get input from others who may be able to shed light on any possible issues before opening the trans. The trans works perfectly, no problems there except maybe a converter.
#3
thanks for the welcome, WOW 40years. The rear diff seems ok. The first time i looked at it the pinion preload was a little to much(40inlb). So i decided to R&R the unit and do it again just to make sure it was correct. I thought it was the problem as well. Now its 15inlb and the whole unit spins well on stands w/tires no driveshaft.
Where should i post this in the forum for review.
When i let off the brake the truck sits there. 2-5 seconds it will begin to roll slowly, you can feel a slight pulsing chug as it starts rolling. It will from there begin to smooth out and speed up. Drive and Reverse are the same. Its like a brake is dragging or slow to release, but i have been through everything but the trans and transfer case. No codes/lights nothing excessively hot and 10mpg. (Norm epa15-19)
Where should i post this in the forum for review.
When i let off the brake the truck sits there. 2-5 seconds it will begin to roll slowly, you can feel a slight pulsing chug as it starts rolling. It will from there begin to smooth out and speed up. Drive and Reverse are the same. Its like a brake is dragging or slow to release, but i have been through everything but the trans and transfer case. No codes/lights nothing excessively hot and 10mpg. (Norm epa15-19)
#5
#7
gdstock; No, it does not load up and the trans works fine. I have felt a slipping converter clutch before in other vehicles, but this does not repeat the same symptoms. Just feels like the transfer of power is lost at idle/just off idle.
Ham Bone; Yeah, i figured as much. The epa rates cars in a controlled enviroment so the figures are not very real world. Yet, if the mpg is in the toilet then a problem exits. I dont know anyone else except you guys and gals who own dodge trucks and probably care enough to check their mpg. Im not sure what everyone else is getting in their trucks without this issue and a bunch of mods. This issue could be normal, just doesnt seem right to me.
Master Tech; Thanks again, I got impatient and already posted another thread. So if you could delete this or that i would appreciate it.
Ham Bone; Yeah, i figured as much. The epa rates cars in a controlled enviroment so the figures are not very real world. Yet, if the mpg is in the toilet then a problem exits. I dont know anyone else except you guys and gals who own dodge trucks and probably care enough to check their mpg. Im not sure what everyone else is getting in their trucks without this issue and a bunch of mods. This issue could be normal, just doesnt seem right to me.
Master Tech; Thanks again, I got impatient and already posted another thread. So if you could delete this or that i would appreciate it.
Last edited by Ramtruck97; 07-05-2012 at 07:18 AM.
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#8
I've had this issue before and if it's what I think it is, you're gonna get off lucky. The rubber flex lines in the back are likely swelling internally. This causes the pressure to stay at the brakes long after you've taken your foot off the brake.
The fix is easy, and even if it's not the fix, replacing the rubber lines as old as yours is a good idea no matter what. However, I suspect once you change the rear flex lines you'll be back to the rolling you remember.
The fix is easy, and even if it's not the fix, replacing the rubber lines as old as yours is a good idea no matter what. However, I suspect once you change the rear flex lines you'll be back to the rolling you remember.
Last edited by Sooper; 07-05-2012 at 09:23 AM.
#9
[quote=Sooper;2818249]The rubber flex lines in the back;change the rear flex lines:
Thanks for the reply, I think yours might have rear disc, mine has drum. otherwise your talking about the rear hose to the axle. I have replaced the brakes in the rear and ft completely up to but not the hoses or lines. I have checked for kinks in the lines and considered the master cylinder not releasing the rear quickly. When on a downgrade the brakes release normal and idle roll normal. On a incline the release is normal, but truck rolls backwards gradually. Also brake moan can be heard when decreasing the pressure on the pedal. Indicating the ft calipers are releasing.
Thanks for the reply, I think yours might have rear disc, mine has drum. otherwise your talking about the rear hose to the axle. I have replaced the brakes in the rear and ft completely up to but not the hoses or lines. I have checked for kinks in the lines and considered the master cylinder not releasing the rear quickly. When on a downgrade the brakes release normal and idle roll normal. On a incline the release is normal, but truck rolls backwards gradually. Also brake moan can be heard when decreasing the pressure on the pedal. Indicating the ft calipers are releasing.
#10
[quote=Ramtruck97;2818263]
Nope, drum rear brakes like yours.
The rubber line may not 'appear' to be bad. Mine wasn't. I chased my tail on that problem. I replaced the master, the prop valve, the hard lines to and from the ABS system...nothing was working. Finally, I changed the flex line and bingo, no more residual grab.
My symptoms were similar to yours. My front brakes were fine. My rears would be loose enough for me to get in and drive normally until I hit the brakes for the first time and then they'd 'feel' like they were still dragging. The rear brakes both got hotter than normal meaning there was increases friction from residual clamping.
The rubber hose does it's purpose but it's a multi layer design and over time a swell happens between the layers. The outside seems fine but the inside where the fluid runs is constricted from the layer swelling. The master is powerful enough to push fluid through to the brakes but there is not enough back pressure from the brakes to push the fluid back through the swollen shut line. Over time, gradually, the pressure bleeds back out, but it's a slow process compared to the constant use of the pedal when driving.
My money, for your situation, is still that flex line. The one to the axle where it splits to the wheels.
The rubber flex lines in the back;change the rear flex lines:
Thanks for the reply, I think yours might have rear disc, mine has drum. otherwise your talking about the rear hose to the axle. I have replaced the brakes in the rear and ft completely up to but not the hoses or lines. I have checked for kinks in the lines and considered the master cylinder not releasing the rear quickly. When on a downgrade the brakes release normal and idle roll normal. On a incline the release is normal, but truck rolls backwards gradually. Also brake moan can be heard when decreasing the pressure on the pedal. Indicating the ft calipers are releasing.
Thanks for the reply, I think yours might have rear disc, mine has drum. otherwise your talking about the rear hose to the axle. I have replaced the brakes in the rear and ft completely up to but not the hoses or lines. I have checked for kinks in the lines and considered the master cylinder not releasing the rear quickly. When on a downgrade the brakes release normal and idle roll normal. On a incline the release is normal, but truck rolls backwards gradually. Also brake moan can be heard when decreasing the pressure on the pedal. Indicating the ft calipers are releasing.
Nope, drum rear brakes like yours.
The rubber line may not 'appear' to be bad. Mine wasn't. I chased my tail on that problem. I replaced the master, the prop valve, the hard lines to and from the ABS system...nothing was working. Finally, I changed the flex line and bingo, no more residual grab.
My symptoms were similar to yours. My front brakes were fine. My rears would be loose enough for me to get in and drive normally until I hit the brakes for the first time and then they'd 'feel' like they were still dragging. The rear brakes both got hotter than normal meaning there was increases friction from residual clamping.
The rubber hose does it's purpose but it's a multi layer design and over time a swell happens between the layers. The outside seems fine but the inside where the fluid runs is constricted from the layer swelling. The master is powerful enough to push fluid through to the brakes but there is not enough back pressure from the brakes to push the fluid back through the swollen shut line. Over time, gradually, the pressure bleeds back out, but it's a slow process compared to the constant use of the pedal when driving.
My money, for your situation, is still that flex line. The one to the axle where it splits to the wheels.