All of this info is incredible, thank you for taking time to offer all of it (even copying & '!!!)
I tested all relays, all good, gently blew clean the contacts while I was at it. I had a slight oil leak for months from the rear of the engine for a while, a month ago it got bad, fast. Through this forum, I was able to diagnose the oil sending unit (it actually was pouring up through the harness!!). Due to that, ALOT of oil/gunk had built up on the back of the block/bell housing. When digging through it to find the CKP sensor, all I could initially find was the rubber "neck" where the wires lead into the sensor.
I will pull to inspect that. I do have someone coming over today (recommended from my parts store, we've spoken a few times) to help run the littany of tests you've all recommended. Trying to go from least expensive to most (cam position sensor tested like it says in the manual), so next is CKP, then the ECM. Sucks being broke!
Thanks again!!!!!

 

Had a 2nd set of eyes come over, with better test equipment. We are getting full power to the coil. But nothing out of the coil. It did get shot with some coolant (the source of this whole thread), but was never removed. So, sanded the back side, the bracket, to ensure good metal-metal contact for ground. Nothing. Attached a wire from the coil to the ground bolt on the firewall. Nothing. Picked up another coil (which looked mysteriously like it had been purchased before). Nothing. Going to get a different coil, upgraded one as well. If that's not it, then wire in new plug in, may have gotten some coolant down inside. But to get power to the coil (or at least the lead to the coil), the CKP sensor has to be working, the ASD relay has to be working, the camshaft position sensor has to be working, therefore the ECM is working, right??? Even the mechanic who came over is a little baffled. Any wild, weird wisdom if anyone has experienced this as well would be helpful. Thanks for all the posts so far.

 

Coil is charged by PCM grounding the coil circuit, coil is fired by PCM interrupting the ground circuit. If you have power TO the coil, but, the PCM isn't doing anything with the circuit..... need to find out why.

Put a test light across both pins of the coil connector. (wiring harness side) When cranking the engine, the test light should pulse. Does it?

 

this is a question to someone that knows more than me....

what if he ran a temporary 12v and ground from battery to coil just to see if the truck would crank and run?
is this a bad idea?
what all could go wrong?
what's the worst that could happen?

 

Wouldn't work. The coil generates the spark energy when the magnetic field created by current flowing thru it collapses when the circuit is broken. PCM controls the ground, it completes the circuit to 'saturate' the coil, (magnetic field) and when the time comes to fire a spark plug, it opens the circuit so the coil fires.

There has to be a reason the PCM isn't controlling the coil. Generally, I would suspect the crank sensor, or the wiring...... Just seems REALLY coincidental that he worked on the FRONT of the motor, and now it won't start...... I don't really see how the two could be connected, unless there is a ground wire at the front, that either wasn't put back on, or, isn't getting a good connection.

 

Had someone run the diagnostics. Came back with 0340, camshaft position sensor. Did the test on the lead to that sensor, showed it (the lead to it) was operating fine. Replaced the sensor last night after locating one, still no spark out of new coil. I will go through all grounds like HeyYou has said. My guy is returning later this morning to see if any new codes are being spit out. I may just replace the crankshaft sensor. Would the PCM be shot if all of this is happening?
Unfortunately I'm not in the position financially to have it towed and just taken care of, not an option, not being stubborn, just stuck-literally and figuratively.
Brad

 

If you can pull codes, the PCM should be ok. Gotta be a bad ground somewhere.

 

Thanks HeyYou. I'll be checking and re-checking all grounds. I'm originally from Detroit, 40 years there. This stuff should be second nature then .

Could the negative or any issue with the battery faulting cause this? I disconnected the negative during my work. Prior to all this, the truck ran great, it was a grandpa truck, so never abused, very well maintained. The normal 140,000 mile issues are all (gaskets, worn ball joints, etc) that I've experienced. 2nd Ram with a 318, know the trucks well.

 

I am confused here. Did you replace the crankshaft sensor or not. First you said you have located one and replaced still no spark, then you said I may replace it. Which one is it. If you are throwing a code for the crankshaft sensor check the wiring for the sensor and if the wiring is ok replace the sensor and give it a try. It is apparent that you are being told to check the ground wires and keep saying I am going to and that you have. Are/have you? These guys are offering you some GREAT help so please follow their advise to a T.

 

Billcart, the camshaft position sensor was replaced. By saying I located one, meaning in an auto parts store. Since replacing the camshaft position sensor did not resolve the problem, I was considering replacing the crankshaft position sensor (because many posts and threads here show those sensors are closely related, and have caused problems similar to mine). I have gone over every ground on the truck (locations were provided in the Service Manual, which I got a link to from this site, thank you). I have followed everyone's advice (and acknowledged so), but to no avail. I am thankful to any and all advice, suggestions, et al. I am polite and believe I have pretty clear on what I have attempted so far.