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is this possible???

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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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just happened to come across this post this guy made on another ram forum.

Hi,
I'm new to these forums, but just wanted to give a little input on the subject of operating temperature and it's effect on ignition timing and related things. I'm currently running my '98 Ram 5.2 with the largest available radiator, no thermostat, and water only + a racing additive & water pump lube. This results in running temps between 129 degrees and 147 degrees, depending on the ambient temperature and driving conditions.

Now, before I get flamed here, let me explain that i do know the engine is supposed to reach a certain temp in order for the computer to lean out the fuel mixture and things like that. I have a friend who is very knowledgeable in auto electronics and computer systems, and without going into the lengthy explaination of the steps involved (not all of which I fully understand) he has set up the sensors to 'fool' the computer into thinking the engine is fully warmed up. I do know that the way he set it up, my fuel mixture leans out within 20-30 seconds of startup. Not really a problem living in south Florida. I have also recalibrated other systems accordingly, such as using spark plugs several steps up in heat range since the engine runs so much cooler than stock. But most importantly, this has allowed us to advance the timing 4 degrees while still using 87 octane pump gas. I can tach her to 6000 rpm's in hot weather with no noticeable ping or knock at all. I have removed and examined the spark plugs, and they look as they should in an engine with correct heat range, fuel mixture and ignition timing. The timing advance makes the truck feel more responsive, especially at light throttle blips.

I have heard people talk about disadvantages of running too cool as well as too hot. From my personal experiences however, I'd rather lose a pony or 2 due to the oil viscosity being a tad high, and reap other benefits I have noticed over the years of super cool running engines. It is true that most of the vehicles I have set up this way were older, carbureted, non computer controlled vehicles, and I do not know if it is possible to set up all modern engines/computers to run this way. I'm not a master mechanic, just a gearhead who has studied engine rebuliding and built high performance motors since I was around 16. I'm in my later 40's now, and have always run my engines as cool as possible, and here are some of the biggest differences I've noticed, just so folks can draw their own conclusions.
1.)It keep an engine incredibly clean. Oil and oil additives do not break down at temps less than 140 degrees. I have broken down several engines with between 275k and 300k + miles on them, and there was none of that brown, baked on varnish on parts inside like oil pan, rocker arms, valve springs, heads. With a little spray cleaner, the parts looked almost new.
2.) It allows much more timing advance without using higher octane fuel. We have even built supercharged engines that ran on pump gas without a timing retard, and without an intercooler because the engine ran so cool it wasnt knocking.
3.) It seems to cause the engine to last much longer. This may be subjective, however, I have NEVER blown an engine. And I don't baby my vehicles. In fact, I tend to beat them like a rented mule most of the time. I have had several hot rods and high performance vehicles, as well as some stock daily drivers too, that I drove for well more than 300,000 hard miles, and even with all that mileage, they always survived being tached to the redline and asked to do the impossible. Most of my engines I retired or rebuilt simply because they started burning oil because the valve seals or rings started to go because of the high mileage. I routinely have vehicles far longer than anyone else I know that are never in need of major repairs. Of course i am a stickler for maintenance and tune ups, but still, the major difference to me is that my car is running at 130 degrees on a 97 degree day idling in traffic, while most of theirs are running 215 degrees + in the same situation.
4.) It gives you a lot more leeway in case of an overheat situation. In other words, a temp gauge in one of my vehicles showing a reading of 180 degrees would warn me of an extreme cooling system malfunction and give me time to pull over and shut the vehicle down while still being far below the damage threshold for the engine. This did happen once when an object went through a radiator on a truck I owned while running off road. When I saw my temp rising from the normal 128 or so to around 180, I shut the engine off and found that i had lost about half my coolant, yet was still running cool enough not to have to worry about overheating damage.

So anyway, just my 2 cents, and you can draw your own conclusions.
Dave

is this true? can i really fool my sensors into thinking the truck is warmed up and still be able to run my engine THAT cool? of course, i dont live in FL, so in the winter time it probably wouldn't be a good idea, but yea lol just curious if anyone has done this lol
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 01:33 PM
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I do not know anything about this but i have done alot of research into hot vapor engines. Which is the exact opposite of this theory. Hot Vapor engines operate at 300 deg plus and make significant power gains as well as mileage. Very interesting subject to read about.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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i mean, i can see the benefits of running your engine with NO thermostat...constant water flow will dissipate the heat much more efficiently...but like he said, he had to fool his temp sensors so that his engine would run right without having to advance his timing to negate the pinging lol. it might be a good idea in the summer time, and just swap back in the winter with a normal thermostat. lol
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Extremely foolish.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hahns5.2
Extremely foolish.

I agree. This goes against all conventional wisdom. First, running an engine without the proper coolant and mixture is asking for trouble. The coolant alters the boiling point of water and provides corrosion protection and lubication. Also, without a tstat, the water flows at max rate, and does not allow the radiator to properly cool. So many things wrong......

My engine is running cooler than I think it should (169 to 180 range) with a 180 stat, efans, and tune. I keep wondering about adverse effects, but have not driven it enough to reach a conclusion. But I suspect I will need to make some adjustments to get engine to normal operating temp.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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I would be REALLY curious how he advanced his timing...... Need to be able to reprogram the PCM for that kind of behavior. I hope he didn't just twist the distributor.... as that would have zero effect on ignition timing.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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He'd need a restrictor in place of a thermostat to slow the water down. It won't absorb the heat moving that fast thru the water jackets.

As for the electronics ..... danged if I know!
 
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