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oil pan

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #11  
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You do have a Haynes and the manual from the FAQ/DIY too I hope? You will at least need to know the proper torque values, when you put it back together.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by zman17
You do have a Haynes and the manual from the FAQ/DIY too I hope? You will at least need to know the proper torque values, when you put it back together.
yes i have a haynes manual lol. thats why i created this post in the first place, because my haynes manual said to lift the engine and take the mount bolts out, and i was like WHAAAA?!?!?!? fu that lol gotta be a better way lol
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 05:00 PM
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Just raise the body itself like I said, tons of room.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Does anyone know if the same tricks work on a rwd.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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I think so.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I think so.
Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tbone360
Does anyone know if the same tricks work on a rwd.

i dont think they do...because the RWD is independent front suspension right? so the cross member will still be under the oil pan and will lift WITH the body. at least thats my understanding of it. lol
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wjxavier
i dont think they do...because the RWD is independent front suspension right? so the cross member will still be under the oil pan and will lift WITH the body. at least thats my understanding of it. lol
You are right, a 2wd might also require removal of the engine pipe. It's hit or miss with a 2wd.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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My oil pan is rusted out. Leaking oil in 3 places. I bought a new oil pan and Felpro gasket. My question is does the pan and gasket go on dry? The guy at AZ said both sides of the gasket should be coated with black RTV, let set for about 10 minutes and then installed.

Thanks,

Jim
 
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Old Jul 25, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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on the rubber gasket, it needs little to no RTV.

i did put a very light coat around the curve in the back, and on the corners, and on the front curve around the bottom of the timing cover. none on the long straight sections.

if its cork, i'd return it...
 
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