Truck has been making lots of rear end noise ever since I drove it across the country for my big move.I took it into the shop yesterday and they said they need to put all new bearings in it. I guess this is axle bearings and pinion bearing? He also said that the u joints back there have play and need replaced. They told me they would leave all the gears alone they are fine. Total price,$1350 ouch.

Anyway,I found a complete axle assembly with the correct great ratio (4.10) rebuilt and warranty for 3 years for $1250. I will probably go this route.

My question is the truck currently has LSD,and I have no idea what that is or if I even want it. The rear I found does not have it, add $500 to get it.
Is this a pretty easy swap? Just hook up all the stuff i remove to get the old rear off, add rear brake hardware,a speed sensor, tires and go?

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Swapping the rear is easy, air tools, and a torch make it even easier. (some of the bolts are going to be reluctant to come off....) New U-bolts wouldn't be a bad idea.

I would look for a used rear...... MUCH cheaper. Might be fun finding one with 4.10's though...... 1350 is outrageous for a rebuild.

LSD = Limited Slip Differential. What that means is, in low traction situations, BOTH rear tires get power, not just the one with the least traction...... the stock units weren't the best, but, they work..... swapping the LSD over to the new axle would not be something I would recommend for someone that hasn't done it before though, gotta set up the gears again, and that is a CRITICAL job. Do it wrong, and you will be buying yet another rear end......

 

swapping in the new to you rear end is a common/easy route. if you or a friend has the know how you could rebuild the rear end that is already underneath it for much less and keep your LSD. The LSD is a Limited Slip Differential. Meaning both rear tires will spin and grab in a low traction situation. Lots of people don't like the factory Dodge Trac-lok LSD units, I for one am a fan and haven't had a problem as long as you service them or at least inspect them every 60,000 miles. think of it as a POSI unit. there are a few specialty tools that need to be purchased and a good understanding of the FSM ( factory service manual ) that pertains to the rebuild.

 

no offense, but if he's asking what an LSD is, he's not going to be able to rebuild either the gear setup or the LSD.

i read that you have a 4wd, so this means that you MUST match the front and rear axle gear ratio. no if's, and's, or but's. its possible --- but uncommon that you currently have a 4.10 ratio. you should double check.

if you have the more common 3.55 ratio, you can get a complete used axle assemlby at the junk yard or craigslist for maybe 250, or 350 max. these are very common and should be dirt cheap. the swap in is pretty easy, provided you can get the stubborn bolts off. make SURE the pinion flange matches, you have the round flange which might be 98-01 or maybe 00-01.

finding a used 4.10 is few and far between and pricey when you do.

used rear ends from junk yard may or may not have the LSD. you may have a difficult time telling whether it does or not unless you learn how to read the tags. (i have no idea.) odds are high that a junk yard LSD will have worn out clutches, so unless you do a lot slippery driving in mud or snow, you might prefer the cheaper fix of no LSD, which means less to break and less to go wrong.

if you go the rebuild route, look for rebuild labor in the $400-500 range or less, plus parts, which includes a "master rebuild kit" ($125) which means all the bearings and seals, plus some more (?) for LSD kit. i might be missing the boat, but all total i think it should be less than $750, maybe even including u-joints (or maybe add another $50).

 

I have no doubt that I could rebuild the current rear correctly, I have all types of dial indicators and precision measuring equipment(been doing precision machining for 10 years) and I can read and follow directions from a manual very well. Having said that, I have messed up easier jobs so...........

I did some research on LSD and my thoughts would be just to rebuild it without, less work, parts, and less to go wrong later. Plus I wont be doing much slick driving at all.

The factory differential had a tag on it with 4.10 stamped. I have not counted the teeth to confirm. Finding one of these in town has been nothing but trouble. In fact the best price I could find in southern Texas for a complete unit (not 4.10) has been $450 with exchange.

My question is how do you guys feel about the $1250 for a complete rear assembly(with the correct 4.10 gear) re manufactured versus time, parts and special tools I might have to buy to rebuild the current set up?

 

If you have the time to do the job and you feel comfortable taking it on read and then read some more, study the tools needed some can be made ez others will need to be bought. You will need a good set of bearing race/seal installers, bearing pullers, Slide hammer puller, brass bunch.

Are you ready to spend the most of the day under your truck? 4 hrs at least if all goes well. What's your time worth to you?

By the time you buy all the parts (clutch pax, side and spider gears, cross shaft, thrust washers, retainers) to rebuild the trac-lok, you can just buy one for about the same price.
http://www.justdifferentials.com/ind...oducts_id=3990

Approx parts cost $600 then tools $200, then your time??

Buy the rebuilt/bolt in diff.

Edit: Does the rebuilt have a warranty? That would be a big plus if it does.

 

yes. actually a nice warranty. only 2 shortcomings are non-LSD (open) and a bit on the expensive side.

 

What part of South Texas are you from (never heard it called "Southern")?
For bearings and U-Joints 1250? From what you posted on here you made it sound like the gears were ok. You should scan in the quote from that shop so you can get some better feed back. If you do not want to do it yourself and if you live around the Corpus Christi area take it to Jamie at Pro Auto located at 5854 Wooldridge Road. There is a one or two day waiting period before they can start the work but they are honest and fair priced.

 

I got a quote from him over the phone, believe he said pinion bearing and axle bearings, plus u-joints and diff fluid, for that price.

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

For the pinion bearing that is very important. It is a crush sleeve and if you jack it up on install guess what? New one is needed.

Give Pro Auto a call and see what they can do for you.