Brake bleeder screws rusted tight....
if you are looking at gm parts you had better make sure it has the 1 3/16" bore. if they have a 1 1/16" they are pretty much the same as the dodge 1 tons but they would all beat the 1500's stock 15/16" bore wheel cylinder.
i think if you are going replace all the caliper and wheel cylinders you should go ahead and spend another $100 and replace all the brake lines and fluid. you will most likely break the ones at the rear cylinder when you try to change them.
i think if you are going replace all the caliper and wheel cylinders you should go ahead and spend another $100 and replace all the brake lines and fluid. you will most likely break the ones at the rear cylinder when you try to change them.
Last edited by crazzywolfie; Aug 2, 2012 at 10:40 PM.
Provided he has the wheel cylinder or caliper removed from the vehicle; otherwise, that brake fluid is going to boil and "BOOM", the weakest point is going to give.
This is why, when I install new cylinders/calipers or refurbish either that I put a light coat of anti-seize on the bleeder valve before installation.
This is why, when I install new cylinders/calipers or refurbish either that I put a light coat of anti-seize on the bleeder valve before installation.
Nope. I've done it several times parting out old VWs when I couldn't get the brake like off the wheel cylinder. The old VWs have a soft line on the rear brakes and when heating the bleeder or the "nut" that attaches to the wheel cylinder will boil the fluid and cause the soft like (which will have collapsed internally) to pop due to heat & pressure.
Nope. I've done it several times parting out old VWs when I couldn't get the brake like off the wheel cylinder. The old VWs have a soft line on the rear brakes and when heating the bleeder or the "nut" that attaches to the wheel cylinder will boil the fluid and cause the soft like (which will have collapsed internally) to pop due to heat & pressure.












