What the best heavy duty fan clutch to buy?
Professional
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi, TX
I've got a total of $150 in my electric rig.. I'd compare it to anything out there, and it is not even a fair comparison to any mechanical fan it is so much better..
I recently replaced one of the 16" fans.. the thing finally wore out after two years.. it didn't worry me because I was smart (smug, no?) enough to use a dual setup.. I looked at the wiring as the basis, and the fans themselves as expendable.. they were a whopping $16 apiece.. Pro-line, 2750cfm, 16".. I used the same fan to replace..
I recently replaced one of the 16" fans.. the thing finally wore out after two years.. it didn't worry me because I was smart (smug, no?) enough to use a dual setup.. I looked at the wiring as the basis, and the fans themselves as expendable.. they were a whopping $16 apiece.. Pro-line, 2750cfm, 16".. I used the same fan to replace..
Champion
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 3
From: Cape Carteret NC
it's straight forward, I think maybe just a list will suffice... from memory:
spool of 10ga wire.. from battery to controller
spool of 12ga wire.. from controller to fan(s)
in-line fuse block off battery; 40a
70a relay off battery south of fuse block
2 16" pro-line 2750cfm fans.. used supplied zip-rips to mount to radiator
rigged one as a pusher (front of rad) by flipping fan over and reversing polarity
mounted other fan inside rad offset from outside one.. (about a 4" overlap) note: by altering the fan to 'pushing' config, you lose some flow.. I likely only get 2400cfm or so with the pushing fan..
used a hayden adjustable controller, two channel.. one per fan..
pushed temp probe through rad just shy of halfway from bottom to top.. used a IR temp gun to get a good reading on this location..
idled engine waiting for stat to open, periodically shot IR temp gun for readings, found magic spot that held consistent 185*, turned dial on controller to come on at around 185*.. the hysteresis is about a five~six degree window.. meaning, it turns on at 185*, and responds turning 'off' around 180* again..
I RARELY see 190* on that rig..
I've wired it directly to batt, which means it runs even after shutdown, but this has NEVER been a problem.. it runs for less than a minute in any situation i've put it through..
future mod's, when the controller I have give's up the ghost: I'll put in a dakota digi controller, that provides variable speeds.. the fans will only spool up when it's really hot, and it taxes the electrical system much less than having two 12~15a draws simultaneously kick on.. I'll also grab some metal stock and make braces to mount the fans with rather than using the zip-rips..
edited to add: my rig is a second gen pretending to be a third.. my radiator is different from y'alls, but the same working foundation holds true for both..
spool of 10ga wire.. from battery to controller
spool of 12ga wire.. from controller to fan(s)
in-line fuse block off battery; 40a
70a relay off battery south of fuse block
2 16" pro-line 2750cfm fans.. used supplied zip-rips to mount to radiator
rigged one as a pusher (front of rad) by flipping fan over and reversing polarity
mounted other fan inside rad offset from outside one.. (about a 4" overlap) note: by altering the fan to 'pushing' config, you lose some flow.. I likely only get 2400cfm or so with the pushing fan..
used a hayden adjustable controller, two channel.. one per fan..
pushed temp probe through rad just shy of halfway from bottom to top.. used a IR temp gun to get a good reading on this location..
idled engine waiting for stat to open, periodically shot IR temp gun for readings, found magic spot that held consistent 185*, turned dial on controller to come on at around 185*.. the hysteresis is about a five~six degree window.. meaning, it turns on at 185*, and responds turning 'off' around 180* again..
I RARELY see 190* on that rig..
I've wired it directly to batt, which means it runs even after shutdown, but this has NEVER been a problem.. it runs for less than a minute in any situation i've put it through..
future mod's, when the controller I have give's up the ghost: I'll put in a dakota digi controller, that provides variable speeds.. the fans will only spool up when it's really hot, and it taxes the electrical system much less than having two 12~15a draws simultaneously kick on.. I'll also grab some metal stock and make braces to mount the fans with rather than using the zip-rips..
edited to add: my rig is a second gen pretending to be a third.. my radiator is different from y'alls, but the same working foundation holds true for both..
Last edited by drewactual; Aug 23, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
Professional
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Always. When I do electrical I always heat shrink and solder. It's the only way.
Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I have thought about dhvaughans reply. When I turn the fan by hand it feels as stiff as my other Ram truck that does not have any heating issues. I see no leaks. Is turning off the engine and watching the fan continue to rotate enough evidence that my clutch fan is getting weak?
Now, with everyone's help, I should have that AC condenser checked out. I just hate taking it in to these shops for that check-up; it will lead to a false diagnoses just for the sale. I wish I could check it myself.
Now, with everyone's help, I should have that AC condenser checked out. I just hate taking it in to these shops for that check-up; it will lead to a false diagnoses just for the sale. I wish I could check it myself.
