Alright so lets just say that I do work on cars and im pretty confident. Its only times when it is my own daily driver and I depend on that I get a bit nervous about working on it. I have a leak around my timing chain cover, I see that I need to remove the big fan hood, alt, a/c comp and the rest is just wires, hoses etc. I see that the water pump will come off right before the timing chain or with it.. but then I begin to question the harmonic balancer. I see that there are a couple of bolts that hold the pulley in place, I get that I have to take that off. Then I get a puller and pull the harmonic balancer. To put it back in, does it have a key like the SBF do so there only 1 way it can go on? Also, once I place the balancer on the crank I will slowly thread the bolt in to push it back in? Do I just hit it with an impact wrench and the harmonic balancer will press back in? Let me know, this dosent seem very mechanically inclined it just seems so damn time consuming. Thanks guys,


Ballfro

 

It is keyed, so, you can only put it on one way. Don't use the bolt to pull it on, unless you have at least a half inch of threads engaged in the hole. If you strip it, you will be unhappy. Don't use a hammer on it either. Impact is fine for final tightening.

 

Everything is on keyweight there....pulling th HB is the hardest part....might i suggest doing the timing chain as well....i did mine i didnt do top dead center or anything...the timing gears are on keyweights and i just made sure the punchmarks on chain we at same place when i removed it.....its really a piece of cake.....and i did use the bolt to put pulley back on and i didnt have a problem.

 

You could risk it and use the bolt, but the torque it takes to 'press' it back on but that's NOT the correst procedure for doing it..as HeyYou stated think of what it could to by stripping it..If you rented the puller/installer kit the bolts are night-n-day in difference for a reason...

 

The balancer is keyed to the crankshaft.

Take a generous amount of assembly lube and coat the inside of the balancer so it'll slide onto the crank. If there is any surface rust on the outer barrel behind the actual balancer wheel, lightly sand it off and apply some assembly lube, as this surface will be in contact with your front crank seal. Do not go hog wild on the sanding, or the gap between the seal and balancer shaft will be too big and you'll have to sleeve it.

Don't use anything other than assembly lube, as these parts will be exposed to oil, and assembly lube will liquify in hot oil and not cause a problem.

If you've lubed it, you'll not have any problems getting it on far enough to have the crank bolt bite some threads and pull it on the rest of the way.
135 ft/lbs. Is the proper torque.

And please don't use a jaw puller on the 5.2L, that puller is for the 5.9L only.