OK, I got my 4.56 gear set on order (couldn't locate a 4.88 set to save my life!) and I got some decent wrenching experience and have been a machinist/mfg. eng. for over twenty years w/a huge set of tools. I also got a freind that races sprint cars & does most of his own wrenching offering to help me do the swap. I am 50% confident he will actually show up when the time comes though and would like any tips that more experienced guys can offer. Any you tube videos, pdf downloads, or words of advise will be greatly appreciated.

 

Tons of info on Billavista tech article.

 

Have a read through this it might help you out.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...gyViORvtU/edit

 

I got a set of 4.88 from Randy's Ring and Pinion.
Rear Chrysler 9.25 is actually relatively easy to work with.
You don't have to keep taking off the bearings, changing shims to get the right backlash.
However, you will need some specialty tools. You can either make some of them or rent them (I hope - I've made mine - tool 1)
Tool 1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-9-2...520d81&vxp=mtr
Tool 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential...80cd6c&vxp=mtr
Start with pinion and reuse the same spacers.
Install ring on the carrier.
Remove side adjusters and clean C__P out of them - it is very important that you keep this area super clean - to obtain right preload readings.
Here is a great instruction - http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf
Hope this helps
Good luck

 

You might want to consider using a Ratech solid spacer instead of the crush collar. You keeping the OEM diff.?

 

This forum is awsome! I took the driveshaft off my truck today to do the U joints and notice up and down play in the yoke, correct me if I am wrong but there should be no play there, anyways, so I was looking for info and here it is all together.

Thanks for posting all the links!

OP: I didn't mean to hijack, just to thanks people that contributed.

Cheers

 

Here is some PDFs I put up years ago.
Should help you on the Dana front, Corporate rear is similar.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...icer-pdfs.html

And they still have not been put back in the FAQs section.

 

If you got play in your pinion its most likely the rear pinion bearing one on the yoke side.
But to make things right, replace both bearings.
Now the issue is the crush sleeve. It takes a lot of force to preload the pinion bearings and is really easy to over do it.
Make sure you have in-lbs torque wrench to get it right.
After tightening yoke bolt and crushing the sleeve it should take 15-25 in-lbs to turn it - provided you've change the bearings.
Check the instruction link I've provided.

 

ok, i'll ask the obvious question- how do you correctly crush the crush sleeve far enough, but not too far.

the yukon instructions said the crush sleeve doesn't compress until about 400 foot pounds of torque, which is a hell of a lot. and then you must not exceed the 15-25 inch pounds on the pinion rotation...

so how do you do that?
i suppose you start with a very good impact wrench, block the pinion from turning and hammer down on it. how do you tell when you reach the crush point?

do both our Dana 44 front and Chrysler 9.25 use a crush sleeve?

 

Alright, thanks. That will be a job for this coming winter.