Got the t-stat installed, now I have no flow thru rad. ( cold on pass side , hot on drivers side) Engine shows about 220 on gauge. ( 195 t-stat installed). I'll have to spend some time on that. It may be a clogged rad or what not , maybe that's why no t-stat was installed .Also got the pickup plate installed,all by feel, and the engine stalling/misfire is still there when warmed up. I'll try a dist cap and rotor next. ( brass contacts ). Then on to the crank sensor. I'll let ya'll know.

 

Ok, so it's been a while, but I had time to work on project truck. I installed an EGR valve and that code has gone away. But still had the stumble and miss when warmed up. I was in a pick-a-part and got a look at how the crank sensor was installed. ( even took pics ) So I tackled that job. What a surprise ! Mine was installed with Hex bolts and was made of plastic. It fell apart AND again SURPRISE ! It had been epoxied together ! The miss/stumble is now gone. I still have code 37 and now 21. So we go on.....

 

I assume you had the negative battery cable disconnected while changing out the crank sensor. ?

 

I had the positive cable disconnected. Does that matter ?

 

Ok, just an update to this old thread. After installing EGR valve, T-Stat, and crank sensor the truck runs fine and no check engine lights on. I've had the windows tinted and gotten an est to have the paint buffed out ( $275.00 ). ( it's a black truck and has a lot of fine scratches on it as if it was driven thru brushy woods ). I bought a steering stabilizer and will be putting new shocks on it, though all the ball joints look the are way loose. Also I bought some chrome wheels and big tire. ( $150.00 at the bone yard ) ( 295/70/17 ) the tires are almost worn out but at least show what it will look like when done. I'll most likley go with 285/70/17s when buying new.

 

Right now, the task at hand is to fix the stereo. ( should I start a new thread ? ) When I got the truck it had a aftermarket radio jacked into the harness. It had no faceplate so I didn't know if it worked. When I replaced the entire dash with a used one , now only the small speakers in the door play and very tiny noise comes out the other 4 speakers. On the old dash harness the seems to be some sorta amp plugged in but with the new used dash installed I can't see if it has one. Thinking of pulling the dash again to have a look. The used stereo that I got is an Infinity unit and worked in my New Yorker. Am I on the right track or have I lost my mind ?

 

For the speaker deal i would say purchase an aftermarket deck and just run nice new wires from each speaker to the deck. i had the same problem in my truck when i replaced my deck i lost all sound except to my ones behind the seat. my solution was just new wires. alot simpler then figuring out that wonderful wire harness dodge provided for us.

 

+1... No need for a new thread.

 

My van throws a 32 and 37 after clearing the comp. The van starts cold and runs great for a van with 220K miles. Once it gets to operating temp it stumbles and sometimes back fires thru the exhaust. I I catch it soon anough and shut it down with the key it may re-start. Otherwise I have too wait til it completely cools down. It does not over heat but has to get stone cold. I have replaced the pump, relay, ASD relay, distributor, cap, rotor, coil, crankshaft positioning sensor. Any thoughts?

 

This could be many thing's. Do you have a Hayne's and a multimeter? If so, in it you will find test's that can be performed on most if not all the sensor's. That's where I would start. And btw, what brand crank sensor did you use?