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1995 ram 1500 code 32 and 37

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Old May 2, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #41  
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Damn, glad your both OK. If you do some research, I think for a 95 there is a recall for a defective hood latch.

EDIT, sure enough there is, http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/638.htm I doubt it because it's been so long, but maybe if you talk to a Dodge dealer or Dodge directly, maybe you can get some relief money wise.
 

Last edited by zman17; May 2, 2013 at 05:05 PM.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #42  
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Thanks for the recall info. I'll follow up on that tuesday. I got the intake off yesterday and have everything cleaned up for install today. No broken bolts. The rear pass side bolt was so corroded in the middle it was about half size. It must have been leaking for awhile. The egr tube is my main PITA. I didn't pull the rad or fan . Doesn't seem to be a problem but the first part I took off was the hood latch. ( I don't need that poking me in my fat belly or my butt) I also didn't pull the injecters or dist cap & wires. I did cut the heads off 4 old intake bolts to use as guides for reinstall. I also bought an inch pound torque wrench. Wish me luck !
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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She's A Runner !!! A little under 2 hrs and its running really well. The double squeak came back even with the replacement alt/compressor bracket installed. When I had it apart I saw that the alt was a salvage part and if I eyeball it real close , it may not be lined up. ( to far back). But the next repair ; remember the PITA egr, well I must have manhandled it too roughly because now its leaking. ( it may have had a small leak before , but now its really blowing). Where can I get one new ? Its quite rusted but I don't think this is a yankee truck, it looks like 2 10mm bolts hold it onto the pipe. Rockauto and Autozone don't carry it. Also , should I retorque the intake manifold bolts now that I have run the engine till warm ? Thanks for any suggestions. This has turned out to be more of a project than expected. but overall with ya'lls help not to bad.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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Won't hurt to re torque the manifold bolts.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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What specs would you recommend ?
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by charmed
What specs would you recommend ?
Check'em with your torque wrench to be sure they're still where you set them the first time. 144 in-lbs. I think.
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by charmed
What specs would you recommend ?
The specs that are the Haynes manual , and in the order listed.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #48  
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Ok, Back at it. Almost got the first egr tube bolt out ( 3/8 inch). Then, snap, it broke off. I turned it out just a little , then lubed up , and back in. After about 45 min I had it about 1/4 in out and then it broke off. Next step was to remove the exhaust manifold. The six bolts were just over hand tight and came out no problem. ( I'll make sure the other side is tight) The other bolt also broke. Dropped the manifold at the machine shop. $30. will be done thursday. Ordered new tube from dealer.( $56.00 ), will be here thursday.
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #49  
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I got the egr tube replaced. ( man, was that a work out! ) No more exhaust leak ! And while I had the throttle body off I cleaned it. It was black and coated with sludge. The wife and I took it out for an 85 mile drive on Friday and the only leak I have is from the windshield washer pump seal. Sunday I'm gonna try and get the alt. shimmed forward about 1/3 inch and see if that takes care of the squeak, and oh yeah , and oil change. After that, I think the TV cable ( trans kick down cable ) needs to be adjusted. The trans shifts fine but at 60 mph will not kickdown to 2nd gear on WOT. When I had the intake off I didn't see an adjustment at the TB. Is it underneath at the trans ?
 

Last edited by charmed; May 11, 2013 at 12:43 PM.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 12:59 PM
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You adjust it at the end on the TB. The Haynes manual has a very good description with pics , on how to adjust it.
 
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