only after its had one of its dying fits. but would the iac cause the engine to not spark? i initially thought it was that but with the no spark i was thinking coil or somthing else.

 

Does the engine turn over when it is hot? Always/Sometimes/Never
I would check the fuel/electrical systems for faults. It could have something to do with the fuel injectors for instance fuel not reaching the injectors or an
electrical error.
Or there could be air in the fuel system.

Also heard that a clogged air filter and low cylinder compression could make an engine hard to start when hot.

 

There could be so many causes to intermittent die/no crank, but first I always like to check the grounding of the system. Check your battery connections, grounds to the engine, ignition system, and fuel pump. As mentioned above, I would then move to the spark plug wires as a bad wire could be arcing straight to the block instead of the spark plug.

Good Luck

 

If you think it is the IAC valve here is a check for it.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the IAC valve and listen carefully for a change in the idle. Connect the IAC valve connector and turn the air conditioning on and listen for a change in idle rpm. When the engine is cold, the IAC valve should varythe idle as the engine begins to warm-up and also when the air conditioning compressor is turned ON. If there are no obvious signs that the IAC valve is working, continue testing.

Use a voltmeter and test for voltage to the IAC valve with the ignition key ON (engine not running). Backprobe the IAC valve electrical connector and check for battery voltage on the purple/black wire (+) and the brown/white wire (-) Note: Voltage should also be present when the engine is running but monitoring the voltage changes as the engine rpm fluctuates is difficult without a factory designed scan tool.

If there is no voltage present, have the electrical circuit for the IAC diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

If the computer is delivering voltage to the IAC valve, check that the IAC valve is not frozen or defective. Remove the IAC valve and leaving the IAC valve electrical connecters connected, turn the ignition key ON (engine not running). The pintle should retract(pull in).

You could always buy a scan tool from an auto parts store that can plug into the ALDL to monitor the computer and the sensors.

The ASD (automatic shutdown relay) could bad.
Maybe the air temp. sensor or MAP sensor could be bad.

 

hey, I too have a 1995 Dodge Ram SLT pickup. I have over 230,000 miles on mine (bought it with 14,000 miles). Just a word to the wise, you take care of your truck, and she'll take care of you!!! Anyway, my dad's '98 Dodge Ram pickup had the same problem with it dying for no reason. His problem was found in the computer.

 

crank position sensor... if there is no spark, then the IAC is not the problem, there are 2 sensors 1 the crank sensor and the other the cam sensor that are tell the computer what position the crank & cam are in to determine when to open the fuel injector and provide the spark. so either your coil is bad (assuming good iginition components... cap rotor etc) or one of the sensors that tell the comp to fire the cylinder is bad.

 

i'll be diving back into this this weekend. does anyone know if the 95 ram 1500 had obd2? i know they had to after 96 but what about 95? i have a plug that i swear is an obd2 plug and if it is i might just invest in a scan tool cable and software for my laptop so i can get it from the *****'s mouth so to speak.

 

it should be obd I. II's started in 96.

 

ok back again havn't had time to work on the truck as i had to leave town for awhile but it will be worked on this weekend without fail since witer is starting and i'm going to need it.

would crank position and cam position sensors cause both no spark no fuel? because i tested things again and i'm not 100% sure but i don't think i hear the fuel pump ingaging either when its not running with i try and start it again. already planing on doing cap,rotor, plugs wires and coil this weekend (most of the stuff is old and needs to be replaced anyway), i still need to pickup champion truck plugs for it and a coil (is there a prefered coil?) also planning on pulling the tb give it a thurough cleaning. the cam sensor is in the distributor isn't it?

 

for the coil, get an MSD 8228 I believeis the p/n and runs under $50 bux. worth it!. stay away from accell coils, they have had problems in the past with dying just like yours...

on the fuel issue, hook up a guage to the schrader valve and you should get 49 psi, if you trun the key to the on position, the pump should turn on. if it doesnt, start there. it should turn on for 2 seconds every time.