Throttle Body Advice
I bought a 50mm "reworked" throttle body on ebay from amyk4422 in Decatur, Ga. but ended up getting ripped on it since I had not recieved it a month later...only BS from the seller but it sounds like PayPal is going to stand behind it this coming Tues. so I will be in the market for another one soon. I have a modded kegger in the garage but have been tempted to get a Hughes FI since I sold a rifle and have the cash now, anyway with the mods I have listed below maybe I should go for a 52 mm rather than the 50 mm when I buy another one. The truck is mainly used for pulling a 16 ft. horse trailer so I do like some power. I have 3.5 axle ratio and did install a Mopar performance computer right before I put in the H&S 1.7s last week. Another reason I wanted to go with the Hughes is to eliminate the blowout problem forever since my 60 yr. old back does not like to bend over in the engine bay too much anymore
I have not checked any weld shops about welding a plate on the modded kegger yet either but that is maybe another option. Thanks for the help!!
I have not checked any weld shops about welding a plate on the modded kegger yet either but that is maybe another option. Thanks for the help!!
I did the kegger mod on mine as well as HS rockers. No problems with the kegger - and the 1/4" aluminum plate (not from Hughes - but from a member here that has an ebay site).
Welding plate on cast aluminum is not a good idea. (I used to work as an engineer for an aluminum foundry - that made intakes...).
Not quite 60, but my back is less than forgiving. I used 1/4" plywood across the front end and could lay across this to remove intake and other items. Don't forget to change to a double roller timing set while you are there. Also, trim the tab off tstat housing. With the tab, if you ever have to change tstat, it is more difficult to remove with using a stellar four letter word vocabulary.
An e-fan set up will help take a little more load off engine as well.
And just for the record....no pics - it didn't happen here!
Good luck, and welcome to DF!
Welding plate on cast aluminum is not a good idea. (I used to work as an engineer for an aluminum foundry - that made intakes...).
Not quite 60, but my back is less than forgiving. I used 1/4" plywood across the front end and could lay across this to remove intake and other items. Don't forget to change to a double roller timing set while you are there. Also, trim the tab off tstat housing. With the tab, if you ever have to change tstat, it is more difficult to remove with using a stellar four letter word vocabulary.
An e-fan set up will help take a little more load off engine as well.
And just for the record....no pics - it didn't happen here!
Good luck, and welcome to DF!
x2. Good advise.
Thanks for the replies and advice, I will just stick with the modded Kegger and a reworked 50mm TB. I do have a double roller chain, new oil pump, new distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor laying on the bench for when I get time to work on the truck again after I get the parts all gathered. I never thought about taking pics when I did the rockers :-( but I do have one of the kegger in progress and the mismatched spacers.
Last edited by guzman; Nov 16, 2012 at 04:56 PM.
Thanks for the replies and advice, I will just stick with the modded Kegger and a reworked 50mm TB. I do have a double roller chain, new oil pump, new distributor cap, rotor and cam sensor laying on the bench for when I get time to work on the truck again after I get the parts all gathered. I never thought about taking pics when I did the rockers :-( but I do have one of the kegger in progress and the mismatched spacers.
Trending Topics
Just mod your own throttle body. The top of butterfly valves are 47 and below 50. So just vote it out a little and cut all the air horns off. There's a couple DIYs on here about.
Takes maybe 1 hour including removal and reinstall
Takes maybe 1 hour including removal and reinstall







