If your coils are coming out of the bucket just get limiting straps

 

Or it could be that I dont have time to research and I just wanted some opinions to point me in the right direction. I'm choosing to ask for help on MY case. Cant find anyone else who's trying to solve this and who's asking for what wall of tubing to use.

 

Ok, thanks guys. I was going to just do some chain limiting straps, but that would be about $40 (chain, bolts, ect) and for $50 I can just get the spacers. I have the tubing to make the arms already (2" x .134 wall) so that's "free"

I dont wanna spend $500 on a lift, when with a little time and effort I can have it at 1/3 the cost...

 

Straps cables or chains would be perfect. I would min use 1 3/4 .120 dom. Whatever you do don't use seamed tubing. Dom only. And help yourself and pit grease zerts on them

 

Am I the only one that read 7" blocks lol? I've got 5" ones and I'm a little skeptical on those. I would stick to the 3" range cause after that alot changes, dropping the track bar, different control arm mounting unless you're gonna build long arms, sway bar drop, and so on. I'm running 7 inches in the front and don't have my tcase clocked though. I had trimmed a little material out of the double joint at the case and had a guy put some kind of ujoints in it that give it a wee bit more room and mine is fine. Haven't bound it up yet.

 

I'm thinking of doing somthing similar to you too. I'm putting them Hellbent 2.5 inch spacers in front but I'm only putting 4-5 inch blocks in the back if i can find them somewhere.

 

HAHA yea I felt a little nuts writing "7" blocks" but hear me out. Factory I have a 3" block, then to get a cheap 3" lift out of the rear everyone just throws an ADDITIONAL 3" block on it for a total of 6" block lift. this creates a terrible leaver arm I realize that, It did cross my mind to do at least 2 control arms in the rear but not sure yet. What I was going to do was remove the factory block and make my own 6-7" block outta a piece of 2.5" x 6" box tubing and then cut it so that the long side is 10" long (that the leaf spring will sit on) and then taper down to about 5" and that will sit on the axle. I feel like this is way safer than 2 3" blocks. what are your thoughts? (yes I will box it in too). Let me know guys. or how good is a shackle lift in the rear? will that give me more flex? cuz i can make shackles for *free*

 

I would advise against a block made out of tubing. Do a shackle flip.

 

Randy Curran - Just outta curiosity (trying to learn) why would you advise against it? Would a shackle flip get me more flex? also do I need to get those zero-rate things to move the axle back? Thanks man!

 

It is just my opinion, but you could very well be setting yourself up for some serious mechanical failure in the field. It would be one thing if you were building a mall crawler. If you have intentions of going out and wheeling your set up you should keep your lift modest, learn your vehicles off roading characteristics inside and out, and then when you can afford it, do it right. There really is a lot of engineering that goes into those kits. Strap your front axle or you will be fixing that on the trail too.

Do a 3" lift and have fun. If you try and wheel where you will need 7 inches or more of lift you will break. Even the pros break top notch parts out there. Handmade parts that are guessed at and band-aid type quick fixes will be a great way to turn your off roading adventure into an over night, working on the truck jamboree. Take a tent and some supplies if you go out in that rig. Just my opinion though.