The inverted Y is prone to bending out on the trail, because the tie-rod connects midway on the drag link. The drag link bends from force of the tie-rod. Also if your lifted, with more suspension travel, the toe-in/out changes as the suspension cycles up and down.

Its true that the WJ had true cross over steering, i had the ZJ with the inverted Y and the best i could do was to give a 1 ton steering upgrade....the biggest difference the relocation of the link to as close to the knuckle as possible to eliminate forces being applied upstream on the draglink.

With a High steer the need for a stabilizer tends to disappear.

Petersens Offroad talks a little about it and promotes carlis upgrade. http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...ering_upgrade/

 

According to popular theory, the same steering parts are bolt-ons for the second gen trucks as well.

 

Over the decades of owning 4wd truck's I learned that steering stabilizers are just a way to cover a problem or more like "looks" is why they are put on, if you need two or more stabilizers you have a problem.

I have driven trucks with them and without them, a properly set up and a good working steering system does not need one or two or three stabilizer shocks. For all the work I have done to my truck it still has the pos steering stabilizer from org, I have driven with it and without it makes no difference.

I had plans to change the Y linkage out to the T set-up but I am not to sure what my plans are for this truck anymore. Sell it, go bigger and make it more of a queen, or just run it into the ground.

 

mine also has the factory 3.5" blocks so i'm not too crazy about stacking blocks but i'm good with a welder so... but i'm thinking i want to go with a 2.5" coil spacer up front for sure and probably an add-a-leaf in the rear mainly because i will be hauling my tool box 35 miles home from school come spring. my box with tools weighs approx. 1800 lbs.

-where is a good place to get 2.5" spacers with an add a leaf for the rear?
- I'd like to find a kit that also comes with the sway bar drop bracket.

Are longer shocks necessary in the front at this time? i'd like to push them off till tax season or so. also am i going to need longer shocks in the rear?

 

If you are only doing 2.5 up front, don't need longer shocks, or the swaybar brackets. Hell Bent Steel makes good spacers, don't know if they do AAL's though. You could check out Top Gun Customz, they prolly have everything ya need. Prices are good there as well.

 

I say go BIGGER....and 20 grand invested into an oldie always looks better than 20 grand driven off a lot.

Were gonna be talking about steering upgrades here soon...could it be we already have a thread full of opinions and options...i better check the faq's section.

As far as the steering stabilizer I agree its more of a cover up solution however I think some view it as insurance in the event something begins to loosen or wear a bit...I believe the purpose was intended to absorb "bump steer" but its all to often used as a "band-aid" fix.

Either way one should not need it to prevent lets say "death wobble" but none the less certain types of steering linkage seem to be more problematic than others as with our y setup.

Intrestingly "Death wobble" is far more common in coil sprung rigs vs leaf sprung, also track bars are unecessary with leafs due to the dual attachment points of the leafs themselves acting as there own axle positioning devices.

 

I am wanting to level out mine. Does anybody know if you can level it like a Chevy 1500 and just tighten the torsion keys?

 

Nope. You don't have torsion bars. (provided you drive a second gen.....)

 

Yea it's a 99

 

You have IFS with coils then.


And you also have a V6...I wouldn't lift it. That engine would already be pushing way too much air, and by lifting it, it would make it push even more.