How do I keep from killing transmissions
#21
12-17-2012, 09:24 PM
Banned Goober Smoocher
#22
12-17-2012, 09:56 PM
The check valve tends to clog up, and restrict/prevent flow. Your trans gets really hot, and rolls over and plays dead. (unfortunately, it isn't just playing....) Check valve delete avoids that little problem.
Adding an inline spin-on filter system has a check valve internal to the filter (provided you get the right filter) so the valve gets changed every time you change the filter.
The Viper series of transmissions are indeed bullet proof. Spring the big bucks (around 2500, plus installation) for the Mega Viper, and that is the last trans your truck will need.
Adding an inline spin-on filter system has a check valve internal to the filter (provided you get the right filter) so the valve gets changed every time you change the filter.
The Viper series of transmissions are indeed bullet proof. Spring the big bucks (around 2500, plus installation) for the Mega Viper, and that is the last trans your truck will need.
#23
12-17-2012, 10:16 PM
Grand Champion
Nope. Keep the internal filter in place, and if you go with a deep pan, get a filter extender to keep that filter deep in the oil. The last thing you want to do is get the truck tipped at an extreme angle and have the transmission pump sucking air.
#24
12-18-2012, 01:13 AM
#25
12-18-2012, 01:18 AM
The Ramzilla would be pointless overkill. The Mega Viper is rated for 700 horsepower at the input shaft. Just keep the thing cool and clean and you'll be in great shape.
What I'd do is to go with the Mega Viper and install a forced air cooling system -- an ATF cooler with a thermostatically controlled fan, that is. Also, unless you've a compelling reason not to, use electric fans on the main radiator, and install an override switch so you can turn them on when you see the transmission temperature climbing. Which of course implies that you really should have a temperature gauge on the thing.
Depends upon the engine in front and the gears behind, really. What you really want for rock crawling and other low speed, high load work is the lowest stall you can get away with. You really don't want that converter running in torque multiplication mode any longer than it must because it's going to make huge amounts of heat in that mode. The hot ticket is to select the differential gears appropriate to the application so you don't need torque multiplication at higher engine RPMs.
When wheeling an automatic, the best technique is to select the gear that will keep your engine running at 2000RPM or above that so it's making good power AND keeping your torque converter above its rated stall speed while maintaining the appropriate (and safe) ground speed. Do that and the engine and transmission will run cool while delivering the power you need to get the job done, and you'll stay unstuck a lot more than the guy who tries to do everything at fast idle speed.
What I'd do is to go with the Mega Viper and install a forced air cooling system -- an ATF cooler with a thermostatically controlled fan, that is. Also, unless you've a compelling reason not to, use electric fans on the main radiator, and install an override switch so you can turn them on when you see the transmission temperature climbing. Which of course implies that you really should have a temperature gauge on the thing.
Depends upon the engine in front and the gears behind, really. What you really want for rock crawling and other low speed, high load work is the lowest stall you can get away with. You really don't want that converter running in torque multiplication mode any longer than it must because it's going to make huge amounts of heat in that mode. The hot ticket is to select the differential gears appropriate to the application so you don't need torque multiplication at higher engine RPMs.
When wheeling an automatic, the best technique is to select the gear that will keep your engine running at 2000RPM or above that so it's making good power AND keeping your torque converter above its rated stall speed while maintaining the appropriate (and safe) ground speed. Do that and the engine and transmission will run cool while delivering the power you need to get the job done, and you'll stay unstuck a lot more than the guy who tries to do everything at fast idle speed.
#26
12-18-2012, 01:21 AM
Yeah go for either the five-speed or a upgraded tranny such as the mega-viper... Don't use the Ramzilla kit: All it does is add a extra O/D clutch and maybe slighlty heavier duty springs and clutches. Not really worth it IMO... Almost had a tranny shop talk me into it a year or two ago...
#27
12-18-2012, 04:05 AM
#28
12-18-2012, 12:00 PM
Grand Champion
#29
12-18-2012, 12:12 PM
Champion
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