I have no imput to the engine discussion but I will say this: You have a nice truck, rebuild the engine and trans.!

 

I am not finding the HD heads.... they have reman, new castings, and the EQ heads in either flavor. (the eq fellers have the larger valves.) So far as I can tell, the new castings are the ones with thicker decks/more meat around the ports, so they can accept a bit more work than the stockers.

Got a link to the HDs??

 

Well when I talked to Odessa, the guy gave me a part number for some HD heads. He said the only difference was they had larger intake ports. Did a quick search: They no longer have the HD heads listed on eBay.

 

I can't say what to do to the engine because I haven't got that far on my own 97 yet, but it's coming so I will deff be watchn this and learning. The trans on the other hand I can help answer questions. my only question is how much do you want to spend? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE-4...item2eaae0a225
this is 1 of the kits I use for daily drivers. transtec overhaul kit, Alto clutches,Raybestos pro front band rated for up to 600 ponies. I personally like Superior shift kits, just set the line pressure adjustment at 0 and not 5/16 unless you want to explode your transfercase and rip out your differentials. Also replace both sprags,extension house bushing,overdrive output shaft pilot bushing,pump bushing,output support bushing(2.269" outside diameter X 2.144" inside diameter X .718" wide NOT INCLUDED IN MOST KITS AND I USUALLY FIND THEM DESTROYED), and replace direct snap ring with a new 1 despite of what condition it's in.Check everything twice and with that many miles your sun gears are probably pretty worn along with the output shaft bearing will probably have a little play in it.

 

here's a few more pointers for the trans. You don't have to buy the special tools that cost a arm and a leg to compress and line up the OD unit. Find a local steel shop that has a piece of 3 1/2" schedule 40 PST (pipe size tube) 12 inches long and you can use your intermediate shaft to line everything up while you compress it, just put a couple notches in it so it looks something like the tool. 3 1/2" schedule 40 PST has a outside diameter of 4 inches. I work in a steel shop and have made a few of these for friends.

 

Thanks for all the info, really helpful. I am comfortable pulling everything and the engine work, I don't know that I have the time patience and organization for a transmission though. Which brings me to my next question, reputable shops in NC or nearby? I would rather drop it off and pick it up than screw something up in there.

Also, still no input on stock/more aggressive cam vs the 1.7s again daily driver, occasional towing, once a month maybe 6000lbs.

 

The KRC 206 grind would be good. KRC was bought out by Crane I think... maybe it was comp cams?? But, it's the same grind.

What's most important though, is that you match your parts. Anything you put on there should be designed to work in the same RPM range. Build for low end grunt. The stock manifold runs out of steam at about 4K RPM anyway..... so, no point in building for up there. Run a good cam, with standard, full-roller rockers. (1.6 ratio on the magnums.)

 

Can't really help until you pick what valve springs/parts you will be using. Using the RR's with a cam has it's advantages to just using a high lift cam by itself.