4x4 wont engage and leaky injector
Hey all , got a couple of wee problems on my hands. Yesterday I discovered I have a leaky injector, fuel comes flyin out when its primed and its dripping right onto my exhaust! I cant tell whether its coming from the rail, clip or the injector itself. Where should I begin with this? And last night during a nice sleet storm my 4x4 decided it didnt want to engage anymore. I got to the bottom of the street, stopped, put it in neutral, pulled it into 4 hi. Now usually i have to put it in drive then reverse then drive for it to engage, but this time it didnt. Next I pulled over away from the stop sign, put it in neutral and pushed it into 4 lo and got a huge screeching sound so i instantly pulled it back. Tried again and this time it went in. Gears were low, however my front wheels still would not spin. Where should I begin with this? Thanks guys, looking to do this cheap as possible since im tryin to sell it!
Now would be a good time to pull the fuel rail and injectors to clean & inspect both. After that, replace both the upper and lower injector O-rings. Chances are one of them is compromised and causing the leaking issue.
O-Rings should be installed using a coating of light oil (new engine oil is fine) and then rolled on to the injector. Care should be taken not to stretch or tear the O-ring; otherwise, leaks will develop.
Replacement of the O-rings is cheap insurance.
O-Rings should be installed using a coating of light oil (new engine oil is fine) and then rolled on to the injector. Care should be taken not to stretch or tear the O-ring; otherwise, leaks will develop.
Replacement of the O-rings is cheap insurance.
Now would be a good time to pull the fuel rail and injectors to clean & inspect both. After that, replace both the upper and lower injector O-rings. Chances are one of them is compromised and causing the leaking issue.
O-Rings should be installed using a coating of light oil (new engine oil is fine) and then rolled on to the injector. Care should be taken not to stretch or tear the O-ring; otherwise, leaks will develop.
Replacement of the O-rings is cheap insurance.
O-Rings should be installed using a coating of light oil (new engine oil is fine) and then rolled on to the injector. Care should be taken not to stretch or tear the O-ring; otherwise, leaks will develop.
Replacement of the O-rings is cheap insurance.
It's common for the vacuum motor/solenoid itself to rust out and no longer hold vacuum. I've had the vacuum switch in the transfer case crack and do the same, and I've even seen the rubber vacuum manifold on the vacuum switch leak.
You might check if the fuel rail is damaged. Were the O-rings lubricated when the injectors and fuel rail were all re-installed? If not, one could have been damaged.
4wd problem is most likely broken or fallen off vac line to the cad. you should have vac on one of the 2 hoses in 2wd and the other in 4wd. next would be rusted out cad or rusted/stuck shaft inside the cad.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm
to make the shift in/out of 4 low, you have to do a couple of things.
shift transmission to neutral.
either stop, or be moving only 1-2-3 mph.
shift very hard and fast in one move - all the way through neutral. do not pause or stop in tcase-neutral. if you do, you'll not be able to get it out of neutral and it'll make a horrible grinding sound. if you do get stuck in neutral, turn ignition off and finish the shift and then restart. it acts like this in/out of 4 low because there are no synchronizers.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm
to make the shift in/out of 4 low, you have to do a couple of things.
shift transmission to neutral.
either stop, or be moving only 1-2-3 mph.
shift very hard and fast in one move - all the way through neutral. do not pause or stop in tcase-neutral. if you do, you'll not be able to get it out of neutral and it'll make a horrible grinding sound. if you do get stuck in neutral, turn ignition off and finish the shift and then restart. it acts like this in/out of 4 low because there are no synchronizers.
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Ill crawl under and take a peak tonight after work hopefully, see if I cant get it to go again. Guess theres no way around that fuel rail other then pulling it off eh?











