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Rebuild-How far do I go? 98 RAM 1500 5.2

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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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If I gut the cat on this (which I have no issues with) what would I have to do in regards to the PCM and 02 sensors? I've heard that creates such an issue but I have heard its no problem. I think I'll get my plans together for the rebuild but I will check around for a used motor to pop in for a bit.
I like the truck and plan on having it a while so I don't want to just blow through the rebuild. I do use the truck for work so it would be nice to get everything together and allowing for issues along the way should be able to set aside enough time to do it start to finish without too much interruption. Even though I'm only 23 it's amazing what I can forget when there is a couple weeks in between... Haha
 
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Just do the non fouler trick no the rear O2 sensor. Write up in the faq section for it.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:52 PM
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If you do pull the engine, change the freeze plugs.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
If you do pull the engine, change the freeze plugs.
Go with brass core plugs.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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I read yesterday to use brass plugs and JB weld them in... I don't know what to think about that really lol
 
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by A-teamster
I read yesterday to use brass plugs and JB weld them in... I don't know what to think about that really lol

Brass - Yes.

JBWeld - No.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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Ok, so update on the engine. I pulled the head, and noticed visually a hairline crack in 2 cylinders between the valves. So I decided to pull the other side to check it out and same thing in cyl #2. I was wondering if you have any recommendations.
1- not my favorite option but having them welded and so forth.
2- buy remanufatuted new valves etc
3- buy aftermarket

I have the engine down to both heads removed, what all should I do to the engine now that it is at this point. I have a few ideas, but rather then cause confusion have you guys rule things out and add, I thought I'd just ask for advice and essentially start fresh from people that know more then me. Lol thanks guys!!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 09:39 PM
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Pick up a pair of heads from Odessa/Clearwater cyinder head in Florida. (they are pretty much the same company.) They have NEW heads that are better castings. Less prone to cracking where yours did. Not much more than reman, MUCH better than stock. Don't bother having them welded.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 12:44 AM
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Check HERE.... $565 and free shipping.

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I would add a double roller timing set, new water pump and HS Rockers while I was there....
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Check HERE.... $565 and free shipping.



I would add a double roller timing set, new water pump and HS Rockers while I was there....

Haha that's so awesome that was the exact set I was looking at. I searched for like an hour just to be sure and that's the best set/price I could find. I am wondering however and I'm going to ask seller if those are ready to I stall or if there is any further machine work needed. I did a water pump when I first bought it. The pistons had almost no ridge at all, if I were to completely rebuild the top end, would there be anything in the lower end I would need to do anytime soon? (Granted everything somehow goes smoothly from this point) So far on the top end I got, new heads/valves etc, new timing chain/sprockets, aluminum plenum, new coolant hoses/heater hoses, TB gone through, IAC cleaned, oil pan gasket (leaking), brass distributor cap/rotor, plug wires, t-stat and housing/riser,

Reusing injectors, lifters, rods, rockers, most sensors and all that good stuff
 
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