Rebuild-How far do I go? 98 RAM 1500 5.2
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 2
From: WV
You would run lean in open loop. Not a good idea..... You could pick up a Mopar Performance PCM, or go to the parts store, and simply order the correct one for the 360. Wouldn't be able to do too much in the way of internal mods though, as it would confuse the PCM, and reprogramming the older ones is expensive......
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Haha that's so awesome that was the exact set I was looking at. I searched for like an hour just to be sure and that's the best set/price I could find. I am wondering however and I'm going to ask seller if those are ready to I stall or if there is any further machine work needed. I did a water pump when I first bought it. The pistons had almost no ridge at all, if I were to completely rebuild the top end, would there be anything in the lower end I would need to do anytime soon? (Granted everything somehow goes smoothly from this point) So far on the top end I got, new heads/valves etc, new timing chain/sprockets, aluminum plenum, new coolant hoses/heater hoses, TB gone through, IAC cleaned, oil pan gasket (leaking), brass distributor cap/rotor, plug wires, t-stat and housing/riser,
Reusing injectors, lifters, rods, rockers, most sensors and all that good stuff
Reusing injectors, lifters, rods, rockers, most sensors and all that good stuff
150K on more modern engines should no be confused with just under 100K on engines from the days when valve lash needed to be adjusted.
I would suggest the OP have a competent machinist inspect the lifters first before tossing them and going new.
With all of the "money" everyone here is spending, he'll have $6-grand tied up in that thing
I would suggest the OP have a competent machinist inspect the lifters first before tossing them and going new.
With all of the "money" everyone here is spending, he'll have $6-grand tied up in that thing
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Spokane Washington
I think the lifters are fine honestly, but will have them checked out. I am indeed on a tight budget as I wasn't expecting on doing all this, started out with fuel pump, o2, and spark plug change... However I don't want to overlook necessary things and be stupid and cheap about it. It's my work truck and I don't need 350 hp, just a reliable rig and stock performance would be plenty sufficient. I will do the timing chain, was considering it. However do I need to get the sprockets too or is that a, only if needed thing? Rock auto has double roller chain for $26 and chain&sprockets for $48.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
You have to get chain with sprocket if you go double roller. Sprockets wear aslo, but mainly if you are running the original, it is a Morse style chain and requires a Morse sprocket. Look at photos and you can see the difference.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
You can replace with OEM Morse style chain, but the double rollers appear to last longer and resist stretching. That is why double roller timing set is an upgrade. The best part is that although it is an upgrade, it is not stupid expensive! About the same cost as Morse.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
I think the lifters are fine honestly, but will have them checked out. I am indeed on a tight budget as I wasn't expecting on doing all this, started out with fuel pump, o2, and spark plug change... However I don't want to overlook necessary things and be stupid and cheap about it. It's my work truck and I don't need 350 hp, just a reliable rig and stock performance would be plenty sufficient. I will do the timing chain, was considering it. However do I need to get the sprockets too or is that a, only if needed thing? Rock auto has double roller chain for $26 and chain&sprockets for $48.
Considering the budget, and that it's your work truck, don't spend the money on 1.7s. You're not going to gain a lot and you'll be spending money where you don't need to be doing so.
Upgrade the oil pump to a high volume Melling, and replace the timing chain *and* sprockets. If you don't know when the water pump was last replaced, or if it has been quite some time, do that as well. It's best to address some of the known to wear items that can be a PITA to replace down the road.
Like I said, the Fastman Throttle Body will definitely change the attitude of your truck and is a good ROI. Be sure to deck the block and the heads even if the heads are new. For added results, I would cut the intake runners down 1.5", knock out the divider (if it's present), and clean up the injector bungs. Simple mods that will yield an excellent ROI and performance.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
So that I am clear - is the engine still in the truck are is it coming out to strip down completely? If pnly doing the top end - I would think decking and blocking would not be an option, but a good idea if engine is torn completely down. But I would inspect cyl walls and mains first befoer incurring that expense.
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Spokane Washington
The engine is still in the truck, my brother drives tow truck so I can take it anywhere I need to, but they still can't deck the block in the truck I'm assuming... The cylinder walls are almost perfect and almost 0 ridge which is awesome! I replaced the WP about 4k miles ago. The Odessa heads advertise "ready to install" but should I still have them decked? What is the best way to clean the injectors, and can they get screwed up easily? Also, just to clarify what do you mean by knocking intake runners down to 1.5"? I'm trying to visually understand because I haven't had anyone mention the intake runners. Last question, how difficult is it to change the oil pump later on this guy? My 350 wasn't a big deal, but would I need to break down the top end of the motor again if I did it later?
