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Blown motor

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 05:24 PM
  #21  
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What are other cylinders showing for compression? Like Heyyou and dhvaughn recommended doing a leak down first, maybe all you need are new heads.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 05:26 PM
  #22  
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It would help if we knew where we are looking for rebuilding shops, so what area are you in? And if you knew they had a bad rep why even mention them in the first place?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #23  
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I would pick one up from a JY and rebuild it myself before buying a long block from a company that has customer service issues. The risk is getting one with a blokc that needs a lot of machining or is unusable. But not replacing the parts they specify could create valid warranty issues as well.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I would pick one up from a JY and rebuild it myself before buying a long block from a company that has customer service issues. The risk is getting one with a blokc that needs a lot of machining or is unusable. But not replacing the parts they specify could create valid warranty issues as well.
My turn, +1 on the jk motor, had to change my op after reading ify service work on the rebuilt long block.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 05:55 PM
  #25  
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I would love to have an extra block (and extra tranny) to build up just to have on hand. Unfortunatley, that costs $$$$!

The problem with a long block is the guys putting it together are paid by the hour to do the same thing for a customer they don't have to ever see. Loss of pride in workmanship has set into our society. And the company wants to deny every claim and will use any excuse they can (check fine print!). And the cost to pull the engine again, ship it back, waot on replacement if they conceed, more PITA than I would want to deal with.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #26  
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I am lucky as I have been dealing with the same machine shop for over 12 years know, they do all my machine work on marine motors and sled jugs. For my own work I pay them in beer and food, we have become great friends, it's all in who you know to get good work done. As for the loss in care for work done, yep it's all over the place these day's.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #27  
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Im in indiana. Only reason I mentioned them is because that's the only engines we sell. So I looked at the reviews and they were bad. I can get a whole 360 for 550 and I can hear it run and test it before I buy so looks like I'm doing the swap here in the near future.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Joshpayne34
Im in indiana. Only reason I mentioned them is because that's the only engines we sell. So I looked at the reviews and they were bad. I can get a whole 360 for 550 and I can hear it run and test it before I buy so looks like I'm doing the swap here in the near future.

Do you have an engine test stand? THAT would be awesome (except it does not apply load and long duraton) but would be REALLY cool!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #29  
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No it's still in the truck but I have a compression tester and a leak down tester. I think it a cheaper and better choice till it goes out too.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #30  
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My opinion? Get that 360, or another low mileage engine. Tear it down to the short block, replace the oil pump, gaskets, put the Hughes R/T cam in it, keep the stock heads and install the Hughes 1110 springs and matching retainers, or get some Iron Rams. Get the Hughes plenum fix, new water pump, doubler roller timing set, new mounts, hoses, belt, etc.

That should come in under $1500 and you'll have a great running reliable engine with more power than stock. No reason to completely rebuild a low mileage 318 or 360, the bottom end on these engines are very stout. The last one I did exactly this way had 80k on it and the bearings showed zero wear and the cross hatch was still in the cylinders with no ridge to speak of.
 
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