California emissions?

 

OK. It is hard for anyone to know about a ticking noise we cannot hear. Refer back the the references to stethoscope and checking for exhaust leak. You have to narrow it down some.


This makes absolutely no sense to me.....Using JY ball joints and tie rod ends?



This adds no clarity for me. No idea what this is about. Gotta speak the language ....let's say English...for some of us to understand it.

Would have to be, but not sure he/she knows. I am struggling to understand the real issue, and maybe multiple issues.

 

Wow. I feel bad for OP on account of BIG RED hyjacking this thread with non sense ramblings one after another. To the OP, can you make a video of this noise? Might help, might not.

 

I think ive got a bearing issue due to the noise its making. It literally sounds like a diesel at idle when its warmed up, just loud enough to cause me to worry. when in gear driving under a load all is normal. I will try and post a video so you all can hear what im referring to. Im positive its not a exhaust leak...tick and not a tranny noise. Im just not sure what a bad lifter sounds like. I will just replace the bearings to start cause it seems not to difficult and something I can do without pulling the motor out. I have a huge pet peeve when it comes to motors not working correctly, this will drive me nuts till its fixed.

 

To change either rod or main bearings, the crank will have to be removed. It's technically possibly to do this with the engine in the truck but this is very difficult because all pistons have to be pushed up to the top to allow the crank to be rotated so all cap fasteners can be removed and to clear the journals for the drop out.

It's also very awkward to drop and install a crank from over head and still get it seated properly in the new bearings. If you're not changing main bearings, it's a little easier...but the crank still needs to come out.

The reason is because bearings need to be matched to the crank. Both wear together. A set of standard bearings will be close but the tolerances will have changed and the crank needs to be turned down .010 and a set of matching +.010 bearings need to be installed for proper clearance.

To simplify the process, you could pull the cylinder heads giving you access and ability to remove the pistons one at a time...but by the time you do a top end tear down you're already at more labor than just removing the engine...which is a relatively simple operation and working on an engine stand is by far the easiest way to swap out bearings.

Please trust me, to do this right and avoid future failure, pull the engine to change bearings. A turned crank is $80 - $90 at most machine shops. Matched bearings are $35 - $45. Gaskets and fluids too, and you can do all this for a couple hundred and your time to do it.

 

I've changed rod & main bearings in many engines without pulling the engine or crank.
All the way from small block chevys to
Cummins diesels.

 

Can is a loose term. Bearings can be slid in around the crank sure. However, the crank and bearing need to wear together to ensure longevity. Telling someone it's okay to use new bearings on a worn crank is fine for you because you don't have to deal with their failure down the road. It's not your money. To do a bearing change correctly, the crank should be turned. On that same point it's possible to remove a crank with the engine in the truck...but is it easy for most normal people in a driveway with a floor jack? No. It's a pain in the *** and those new bearings can be damaged if the crank is not wrestled back up into place properly the first time. To do it right, the crank should be removed. The best way to remove the crank and do this task is to pull the engine and perform everything on an engine stand. Yes you can install new bearings around a used crank. I would not suggest that to anyone because it's not the right way to do it.

 

Crank only needs to be turned if it is out of spec for stock bearings, or, has obvious damage...... Checking it in the block isn't really doable. Taking it out with the engine in the truck is more of an exercise than yanking the motor..... (unless you simply don't have the tools/place to yank a motor...) Plastigage will give some indication of clearances..... and, if it is still within spec, it's a viable option. (I have done this on quite a few motors, with zero issues.) The big thing here is, IS the crank within spec?

That said..... on a high mileage motor, that is already having oil pressure issues due to bearing clearances, it's a pretty safe bet that the crank is indeed out of spec.

 

The crank ain't coming out without removing motor or at least tranny anyway.

 

It MIGHT be doable.... but, on the dodge, I don't think so.... design of the bellhousing won't let you get the flexplate down, and you can't get to the bolts with everything in place.