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Questions about 360/5.9L into my Jeep..

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  #21  
Old 03-09-2013, 06:38 PM
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Nope no plans for a wheelbase stretch right now. Kind of sucks that all the stretch kits came out about 6 months AFTER I had bought all parts for my build. The Jeep works darn good right now with the way it is setup. Going to the 38" tires made a huge differance. I would never go back to smaller rubber.

I have been stalled on my rebuild of the 360. I got sick and was out for 2 months this winter. Then I found out my crank snout had stripped out threads for the balancer bolt. So I just found a 360 crank with stock size jurnals on Ebay. It is now at the machine shop getting hot tanked and polished. Once I get it back I can start putting the engine back together.

I am also changing out my air cleaner if your interested.
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I sent you a PM a while ago. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
  #22  
Old 03-13-2013, 03:42 AM
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Motor should have been out days ago, but stuff happened that stalled that.
Anyway. It's out now. The Jeep 4.0Ls sure don't have a ton of lifting points.

I got my center dump headers as well. The harness is just chillin', so I'll ziptie it to a piece of plywood and use the wood for labelling etc, alongside the other yet-to-be-pulled harness.
Then I can sand/wire wheel the engine bay and start plating it.

 
  #23  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:06 PM
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I haven't had a chance to do much as of late, I have final exams coming up, an essay to have finished, and work is making me do 6 days a week (not full 8 hour days on Mon-Thurs but still a hassle).

Harness is hanging on by one bloody plug up inside the dash that isn't behaving, so I temporarily turned my attention elsewhere..


Got the driver and passenger bay plating almost done. No pic of that, just of getting the main plate in place:


1/8" should be enough for the job.


I know it's not a Ram, so just tell me if you want me to stop posting pics.
 
  #24  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:49 PM
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Tell me your not using that cinder block to hold up the Jeep! If yes that's just unsafe, if you are going to use cinder blocks at least use them the right way.

Q what size and make are the coil over's and where did you get them from? Cost?

Nice work keep the pix coming.
 
  #25  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Tell me your not using that cinder block to hold up the Jeep! If yes that's just unsafe, if you are going to use cinder blocks at least use them the right way.

Q what size and make are the coil over's and where did you get them from? Cost?

Nice work keep the pix coming.
I promise I'm not. The truck is supported by two 12-ton jack stand near the front-middle. I only have that cinder block and jackstand there to stabilize the Jeep's front end, because I can't put the 12-tons farther forward because of the control arms, and having the Jeep pitched forward so much right now like a dragster, it wants to wobble without a little help on the front. There is very very little weight on that front jackstand. The rear is still on wheels.

edit: just noticed that in the second picture, it appears as though the other cinderblock is underneath the frame rail supporting the rig. It's not, only thing it's supporting is a brake caliper so I'm not hanging it by the hose.

The coilovers are 2" FOA emulsion coilovers, 14" travel. I'm okay with them being 2", but I wish I had sprung for resi's and Fox or Bilsteins. Frankly I have an extremely low opinion of the FOA coilovers. Got them direct from FOA, and with springs included (dual-rate), they were around $650.
 
  #26  
Old 03-21-2013, 01:00 AM
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Thanks for the info on the coil-over's. I have not been hearing many good things about the Fox c/o shocks or FOA, been looking at King c/o 2.5 remote res out of Kamloops with springs $600 each new.

Yea it was the second pix that got me wondering. Glad to read you have it blocked safe .
 
  #27  
Old 03-21-2013, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Thanks for the info on the coil-over's. I have not been hearing many good things about the Fox c/o shocks or FOA, been looking at King c/o 2.5 remote res out of Kamloops with springs $600 each new.

Yea it was the second pix that got me wondering. Glad to read you have it blocked safe .
FOA I understand, as I've had a bad experience with them. I will never recommend them to anyone. What bad things have you been hearing about Fox? From what I understand their customer service is pretty pitiful.. My buddy had a good experience with his SAWs on his Ranger, and they're not a bad price.. Kings are a little out of my price range.
But, Fox doesn't use a very good rust inhibitor on their shock bodies. They get rusty.

If you're looking for long travel and I'm sure you already know this, but I would recommend a triple rate kit in conjunction with the dual-rate springs. I am constantly extending beyond my springs unloaded length when offroad, I'm set up for 5.5" up, 8.5" down on 12"/16" springs with no preload. Flexes like a boneless hooker on muscle relaxants, but nonetheless, the spring unseating gets old, although it's far less harmless captured by the coilover shaft than a regular coil set-up ready to fall out of your truck.
 
  #28  
Old 03-21-2013, 09:27 AM
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I have a Jeep with a 360 in it, too! Of course, mine came like that from the factory...

My $.02 after looking over your thread. Your friend with the 5.2 has a 44re, not quite the same as yours. The 360 will shred an AX15. The AX15 "Terminator" and NV3500 are both better options. If you have any questions about transmissions mated to a 360, Martin Saine (the FASTMAN!) is your man. Knows more about the 46re than anyone else on the planet, and can build them to handle anything.

M1 won't get you any low end (rock crawling) gains. A fellow did some tests that compared the M1 4bbl, the M1 2bbl, and the Kegger. Both M1s killed the low end, but made up for it at higher RPMs. A hugely popular option is a set of "towing" cams offered by Summit Racing. You don't need to do a whole lot to run them, and they really give it some low end grunt. Match them up with a chopped up Kegger and ported TB, and you're golden.

I'm really interested in seeing you squeeze that 360 in there!
 
  #29  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ
M1 won't get you any low end (rock crawling) gains. A fellow did some tests that compared the M1 4bbl, the M1 2bbl, and the Kegger. Both M1s killed the low end, but made up for it at higher RPMs. A hugely popular option is a set of "towing" cams offered by Summit Racing. You don't need to do a whole lot to run them, and they really give it some low end grunt. Match them up with a chopped up Kegger and ported TB, and you're golden.
That'a not right wrong info. With a few small supporting mod's using the M1 will gain you some lower end tq, I run the M1 2bbl and there are a few others that do as well and all like the end results. We have one member here that does lot's of rock crawling with his truck and he most deff prefers the M1 over the kegger intake. These motors only have one cam in them not two.
 
  #30  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewmacc
FOA I understand, as I've had a bad experience with them. I will never recommend them to anyone. What bad things have you been hearing about Fox? From what I understand their customer service is pretty pitiful.. My buddy had a good experience with his SAWs on his Ranger, and they're not a bad price.. Kings are a little out of my price range.
But, Fox doesn't use a very good rust inhibitor on their shock bodies. They get rusty.
I am hearing lot's are having to rebuild the Fox shocks in under a year that's not for me. Yep they rust to no end, have a buddy out here and he put a set on in the fall and they are toast rusted to all heck, he is not a happy camper. I found Fox shocks cost the same as the King shocks so King it will be.
 


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