Questions about 360/5.9L into my Jeep..
#41
Nope. Just notches in the flywheel. The 95 piece should have them. Do you remember seeing them on assembly? (basically, eight notches.)
Wonder if you just have a bad crank sensor. All it really is, is a hall effect switch. You can test it by taking it out, and waving a piece of metal in front of it. (fairly close though.)
Sensor should be getting 5 volts (I am pretty sure) directly from the PCM, ASD shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Wonder if you just have a bad crank sensor. All it really is, is a hall effect switch. You can test it by taking it out, and waving a piece of metal in front of it. (fairly close though.)
Sensor should be getting 5 volts (I am pretty sure) directly from the PCM, ASD shouldn't have anything to do with it.
#42
Nope. Just notches in the flywheel. The 95 piece should have them. Do you remember seeing them on assembly? (basically, eight notches.)
Wonder if you just have a bad crank sensor. All it really is, is a hall effect switch. You can test it by taking it out, and waving a piece of metal in front of it. (fairly close though.)
Sensor should be getting 5 volts (I am pretty sure) directly from the PCM, ASD shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Wonder if you just have a bad crank sensor. All it really is, is a hall effect switch. You can test it by taking it out, and waving a piece of metal in front of it. (fairly close though.)
Sensor should be getting 5 volts (I am pretty sure) directly from the PCM, ASD shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Is it possible to blow the sensor by hooking it to a 12v battery, with no PCM to regulate it to 5v? Maybe too little too late, but I tried it last night hooking up like I mentioned in my last post, and even waving it in front of a piece of steel plate I got no voltage. Possible I just hooked it up wrong though..
I'm going to see if I can hook it all back together and bribe a buddy to come up with his Snap On reader and see if he can get a live reading on the square wave I should be getting from the CKPS while cranking. I made a thread on PBB as well (I'm just that lost) and ramv mentioned he managed to short out his PCM by reconnecting the battery while the key was in the ON position. Is there any way to test the PCMs to see if its fried? I did that multiple times while trying to get a voltage reading to the coil etc by myself.
#43
#44
From the other thread since you mentioned replacing timing gear and having to reset TDC, I'd suggest rechecking TDC the manual way. Pulling cylinder 1 spark plug and placing stick or screwdriver in to find out when it hits exhaust stroke, iirc.
It's possible you could be 180 out.....
Just thought to mention that as something to rule out, also presuming dizzy was not moved to fark up fuel sync.
It's possible you could be 180 out.....
Just thought to mention that as something to rule out, also presuming dizzy was not moved to fark up fuel sync.
#45
Buddy screwed up the wiring. I was getting battery voltage to the coil, but I wasn't getting anything from the PCM. I had an experienced automotive electrician tech from my local 4x4 group come out with his equipment. In the end we snipped the coil wire at the coil, and at the PCM, and ran a jumper, bypassing the harness. So now I need to tear the harness apart and see what he effed up.
Fired right up no problem. Just tons of vacuum leaks right now and still no gauges. I purchased a 1998 2500 5.9L 5spd PCM, but I'm hoping maybe someone can help me read the PCM to see what it is/has SKIM/etc.. I don't trust the junkyard I got it from.
Numbers are
11B3057P9CTU
P56046 348AC
T2747
Anyone?
Fired right up no problem. Just tons of vacuum leaks right now and still no gauges. I purchased a 1998 2500 5.9L 5spd PCM, but I'm hoping maybe someone can help me read the PCM to see what it is/has SKIM/etc.. I don't trust the junkyard I got it from.
Numbers are
11B3057P9CTU
P56046 348AC
T2747
Anyone?