Just to add a little info from a company that does engine swaps for a living.
This qoute is from Advanced Adapters just to put an end to all the misinformation about the AX15.
I know more than one person running a AX15 behind V-8's of all makes. So if you WANT to run the stick then do so and enjoy. If you'd rather have a auto then swap in the 46RE and run it. As has been stated there is a differance between a 46RE and 44RE. It looks like your moving along with the swap. Hope you get more done to it and have fun melding the two wiring harnesses.

 

I'm sorry. Not trying to start the M1 4bbl/M1 2bbl/Huges Airgap/Kegger argument for the 1,000,000,000th time. Just trying to add what I've read. 2bbl is definitely the way to go if you have enough other stuff to justify it. For mild builds, the ported kegger or airgap are usually the favorite (with Jeep guys, at least). I know you've seen this before because it's been floating around forums for three years now. Yes, it's uncorrected, but it's better than nothing.



Blue= Stock kegger
Red=M1-2bbl
green= M1-4bbl
Black= Hughes Air-Gap

I know. Poor wording on my part.

 

And there lies the problem all you have done is read about it. Guess what I have one and love it. I can also post dyno sheets going the other way but why most are BS mainly the Hughes sheets. Do some more research about the Hughes F1 air gap find out what it was really built for, it was never meant to be a mpi intake. I can go on and on but as you said why start a argument over it.

 

I was literally a mouse click away from ordering a Hughes F1 Air Gap a couple of years ago. I would buy an M1 now, if I ever get to....

 

Wildman -- I think that is useful information. It will still come down to demand of said tranny. I'm sure it will work in some cases and not in others. I have no bone to pick. A further observation of the citation is that it is being touted by a Vendor (prominent for obvious reasons like the Atlas) that seeks to maintain a product line.





So McCloud you acknowledge that the dyno chart is not actually Apples-to-Apples comparison based on you reading so much about it, right? The problem is passing off information without the Critical Details that go along with it when making a biased position. You didn't qualify your position, moreover, passing on misrepresentation of a comparison on intake manifolds. For instance....all the curves were used on a vehicle (to my recollection) that was ONLY tuned for the Air Gap. There were other additional details that contribute to skewing the dyno charts.

I want to make clear that I'm not here saying 1 is better than the other hands down, unlike yourself. I am saying that NO ONE has done a true comparison of the intake manifolds on same vehicle with the corresponding tune in order for true credibility weight.

/topic



Slow poke!

 

Play nicely, fellows.

In regards to transmissions, the plan was essentially to run the AX-15 until it blows. If it does, the clutch and flywheel will likely be reusable anyhow, so I'm not out much except the Dakota bellhousing. It will actually be easier to keep the stick shift in the Jeep, IMO. No rewiring of the clutch safety etc. Plus with the reduction, I'm not ever slipping the clutch offroad.

For intakes.. well, I'll keep the beer keg. If I have the time I'll perform the mod. As it is, work remains slow on the Jeep as it's the lowest priority right now.

Got the passenger side basically all finished. Just gotta flap wheel it down. I've repeated this ad nauseam but anyone's who had fun welding to XJs knows the joy of welding to the tin metal, so be gentle. Mild steel to mild is always fine, this stuff is just irritating.

 

Howdy guys. Long time no see. Hate to be a user and an abuser, but I'm partially back with more questions..
I have the motor in and cranking with fuel prime, but the ASD relay is shutting the coil and injector voltage 1-1/2 seconds after key-on.. What I've deduced thus far is that the ASD is energized during key-on, and if the PCM doesn't detect a signal from the CKPS, that it refuses to continue acting as a ground for the ASD relay, thereby killing the voltage to the coil/injectors.
I installed a new "Standard products" manual transmission CKPS, though I had to file down the plastic slot because the manual tranny CKPS has the key slot off to the side, whereas the automatic CKPS has a centered key slot for the connector. Even then, testing either the manual CKPS or the automatic CKPS using washers to space it from the flywheel, I get nothing. ASD kicks on regardless. I can jumper the ASD to make constant voltage, but you can't start the vehicle that way.

I figured it's also not a coincidence that the 1997 Dodge PCM will not run my 1998 Jeep XJ gauge cluster, but plugging in my '98 PCM gives me my gauges back, but will not register RPMs when it's cranking..
Does anybody know if there is some electrical differences between a 1997 and a 1998? I am going to try a 1998 Dodge PCM but I don't want to throw $170 if there's no difference.



But hey:

Using a Jeep Grand Cherokee power steering bracket to clock the pump closer inward, and use the XJ steering pump with a ZJ v8 pump pulley (not correct pulley in pic:






Had to notch the frame rails for the headers:














Thanks guys!

 

What engine was in there originally?

I don't think the manual trans crank sensor is close enough to the flywheel to get a proper reading. (unless you actually HAVE a manual trans....)

Yep, PCM wants to see the engine turning (crank sensor) to keep ASD engaged.

 

The 97 PCM is not CCD bus like your 98 is. You'll need a 98 or 99 (I think 00 will work, too) PCM to run the gauges. Or could feasibly swap in a 97 cluster, but you'd have to dog into the the other functions of it, I've never swapped into an XJ.

But...the 97 PCM will still run the engine, just not the gauges.

 

Motor was a 4.0L i6. But I'm using the ckps from the Dodge so it's kind of irrelevant. Engine harness is all Dodge.
The Dodge had an automatic tranny, swapped for my jeep AX-15. So the manual ckps is appropriate. It specs fine in the resistance test. There's continuity and no resistance in the ckps or ASD wiring from connectors to PCM pins.
I tried to force the ckps to give me a pulse reading by feeding it power on the supply pin, and grounding the sensor ground. I attached a multimeter to the ground and the sensor signal, but I got no reading as I manually turned the motor with a breaker bar. I checked my receipts again and it claims the flywheel was from a 1995 2500 360ci, so I don't know why it's not (apparently) not picking up a pulse from the flywheel..
5.9Ls don't have a removable tone ring do they?