I've seen on this forum similar issues but I'm still dealing with the problem.
I bought this 2500 4x4 a year ago and shipped it to the Rep. of Panama where I'm retired to. There are no Dodge services to take it to.

I decided to replace all 4 bake pads. That's when my problems started. The brakes were hard and rims got hot. I remember back then getting some pulsing on the brakes. That I've read was the ABS kicking in.

I had the installer check the brakes. We thought it was the calibers and he worked on making sure they were not sticking. My wife was in the states and I had her bring a new master cylinder back which is installed. I had the mechanic pull the sensor out of the differential and "clean" it.

At this point I had the Brake/ABS lights coming on periodically. Some times starting up I'd watch these lights go on and off, most of the time staying off until something turned them back on. Then I might stop the pickup and these lights wouldn't come back on.

Next I got caliber rings for all four wheels. Right now only the front rings have been replace. The problem is not better even worse. Now the lights stay on most of the time.

Today I noticed for the 2nd time in recent weeks the lights went off and when I hit the brake (I could feel a "click" in the brake pedal) and the lights came back on.

I have a fellow arriving from the states with new front brake sensors. I don't think that is the problem.

What is my problem? Do I have to replace the calibers? New rings are not enough? I hate driving with a warning light on. The brakes seem to be working just fine, although they might be a touch soft. Oh if I press hard I can slowly punch the pedal all the way to the floor.

I'm up and down in the mountains. I need to know that the brakes are not going to fail on me.

 

The lites being on just indicate that you no longer have ABS available. If there is somewhere around you with a scanner that can read ABS codes, you will be much further ahead, than simply throwing parts at it. If nothing else, you could buy one..... (and probably still come out cheaper than just tossing parts at it.)

if your brakes don't wanna release, are not working properly (minus the ABS), you need to figger that one out PROMPTLY. The calipers may be sticking, you may have collapsed lines, that allow pressure IN, but, not OUT. See if you can figure what is going on.. take it from there.

 

You have any idea what the codes are. Maybe I could just create a check list of what to look for if I knew what the codes pointed to.
edit: found the code listing on the forum. Yikes 54 pages of codes
I don't have a manual here in front of me but does it say where one connects a scanner should I find someone with a scanner? Most of the cars and truck here are Japanese, Toyota being the most popular.

Collapsed line: You mean some form of damage as the pickup ages or is this from some sort of damage from the environment like a rock?

Keep in mind this problem started after I had the brake pads replaced.

If the calibers are not releasing can they be serviced to fix this or do they need replaced?

edit: Lets see if I can find a readout from some service site.

 

There is a list of DTC's in the faq section. There are a bunch for the 4WAL systems..... Need to know which ones, and that will give a starting point.

Should be an OBDII port under the dash, right between your knees. Need a good scanner to get ABS codes though.

Lines get old, and break down internally. It isn't an unusual occurrence.. Could try jacking up one end of the truck, stepping on the brakes a couple times, and see if they actually ARE releasing. If not, crack open a bleeder, and then see if they will turn. If they will, line is more than likely bad, if they won't, caliper becomes suspect.

Since it all started after doing pads, I would be really tempted to pull things apart, and make sure they are the correct pads, and correct installation.....

Calipers can be serviced.... but, it is far easier to simply replace them if they are bad. Around here, they are pretty cheap..... for you though... it's gonna be more interesting. Sorry 'bout that.

 

There's a technique I stumbled on, yahoo for reading the codes without a scanner.

You turn the ignition to on 3 times and then leave it on and in the odometer window the codes are read out one after the other until it says "done"

Unfortunately I get PE0 or was it PC0 and then "done"

Nothing's posted in the computer?

Ok I'll try lifting ends of the truck to see if the calibers are releasing.
Shipping is the problem from the states. They are so bloody heavy that it jacks up the shipping significantly.

When the lights are off ( which is now rare ) I've felt something in the pedal and the lights come back on.

We've been doing one wheel at a time to bleed the brakes. Is that the method?

Appreciate your support.

 

For bleeding, yep, one wheel at a time. Right Rear first, then Left Rear, Right front, Left front.

Yeah, can't be cheap to get parts there..... Rebuilding would require honing the piston bores, got the tool for that?

Key Trick won't pull ABS codes.

What are you feeling in the pedal? Does it bounce around under your foot a bit? (and do you hear the ABS motor doing it's thing?)

 

I tried to describe in my original post as a "click"
I wouldn't say it's a bounce.
It like a click without a noise.. something resonating from the brake system to my foot.

I've got caliber seals for the rear wheels that I can try installing. Labor costs are insignificant. Refurbishing stuff is the first choice. I could get the caliber cylinder bored but then that means a oversize piston is needed, no?

I don't hear any ABS as far as I know. Really there's a motor for ABS.

When the problems first stated "months" ago, when i replaced the brake pads. I'm heading down a mountain and the pedal throbbed. I don't get any of that now. Just the bloody ABS and Brake light on most of the time. I'd like to disconnect this annoying light if I could at this point. ha

 

I think you should try replacing the sensor on top of the rear diff. Disconnect negative battery cable before doing so, if you decide to try it.

 

You can disable the ABS, just deprive it of power. I think that would turn off the lights as well. So long as the mechanical portion of your brakes are working properly, its an option.....

No oversized pistons available for calipers. Basically, the hone is just to clean them up a bit. May not even be required. (depending on what they look like....)

Your speedometer doing anything odd?

 

speedometer seems normal to me.

I had the mechanic I'm working with pull the sensor from the rear differential and clean it. This was the 1st thing I did for this problem.He said it was "dirty". Just before he did that I had the rear differential oil changed. There were some filings in it? I think it was normal wear and tear. It wasn't low on oil either.

I don't think I'm going to resolve this.

edit: I ran it to the corner store. I noted backing up the lights went off after braking. I moved forward they came on. I went down to a vacant road and repeated this operation. I get the light off either after braking in reverse or starting forward.. then they come back on. What do you think? I'm thinking "a" caliber? or calibers that or as earlier said clogged lines

edit 4/23 I posted a reply to my own message but I don't see it here??
I got my hands on a scanner and it tells me no less that there is "NOTHING" on the computer.

I've got both the Brake and ABS lights on almost on a permanent basis now. I'm going to install new sensor cables on the front wheels.

It's your guess as well as mine what the problem is