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Rebuild Magnum 360 Motor

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  #41  
Old 06-14-2013 | 06:18 PM
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Yeah! Much better.
 
  #42  
Old 06-14-2013 | 11:50 PM
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Ok, so I have a few questions about next steps for this motor. The Oil Pump / Distributor Shaft has a slot in it, I understand that the slot should point towards cylinder 1. Is this correct? Should it point directly forward, or should it be at a slight angle towards the center of the cylinder? I also understand that after I install this, I should turn the engine once and then install the distributor, is that right?

I have also read that my truck will need to have the fuel / timing synced by the dealership once I've re-installed the engine. Is that correct?

About the engine paint, I painted my engine bay black, and I'm thinking I'm going to go with HEMI orange on the engine.
 
  #43  
Old 06-15-2013 | 12:07 AM
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Slot doesn't matter really. Just as long as you spin the distributor to line up on cylinder 1 when at TDC on compression.

Make sure you use the priming tool on a drill before you install the dist drive.


Edit: Yes, it'll be helpful to have the fuel synced after rebuild.
 

Last edited by Gaius; 06-15-2013 at 12:09 AM.
  #44  
Old 06-15-2013 | 08:45 AM
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Ok, hope I don't sound stupid, but just to confirm, I'm at TDC on my compression stroke when both of my valves are closed on cylinder 1, correct?
 
  #45  
Old 06-15-2013 | 09:44 AM
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Correct.

If you have the manual, (and if you don't, you should download one from the faq section here.) there is a procedure in there for setting up initial dist timing. Basically, its just lining up a bunch of marks on the dist/block. Will have it close enough to start, and once running, if you can't read fuel sync, take it to a shop and have it set. Shouldn't be more than an hour labor.
 
  #46  
Old 06-15-2013 | 06:05 PM
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Ok, the shaft is in, and it matches the notches on the bushing. Also chased the head threads today. And double checked the shop, the block decks are in spec. Tomorrow, i'm hoping to install the oil pump, timing cover, oil pan, lifters, and heads. I actually do have a scanner, not sure what all it reads, but i'll check.
 
  #47  
Old 06-15-2013 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1997JollyGreenGiant
Ok, the shaft is in, and it matches the notches on the bushing. Also chased the head threads today. And double checked the shop, the block decks are in spec. Tomorrow, i'm hoping to install the oil pump, timing cover, oil pan, lifters, and heads. I actually do have a scanner, not sure what all it reads, but i'll check.
scanner needs to be dbr3 scanner
 
  #48  
Old 06-15-2013 | 10:51 PM
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OBDII Chrysler 2.0 will work just fine too...
Edit: OBDII ScanTool with firmware for Chrysler 2.0
 
  #49  
Old 06-16-2013 | 07:49 AM
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Snapon mt2500 or mtg2500 will work just fine too. Just needs to have the ability to do the sync
 
  #50  
Old 06-16-2013 | 02:50 PM
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Nice job. You are asking all of the right questions and doing everything just right. Take your time to put it together right. All of the stuff you are having the shop do is a good call as well. Since it is your first motor, get the slow intro and not the crash course.

In the future, the bearings can all be checked with plastigauge. Here is the process a machine shop goes through for an actual rebuild on an engine. They do not cut corners and the process rarely changes, no matter what motor they are working on. I for one, like to use a good quality racing lubrication when assembling as well. No dry starts.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._End.aspx?pg=1

Nice job. You should have years of service with the the motor and you will always see the new motor, have great memories and feel the love, every time you pop the hood. Just know, all of your friends will see what it looks like on the outside but, you will know what it looks like all the way through.
 


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