Control arm? You mean steering knuckle right? I hope. If so, no. The bolt screws into the hub bearing only. So cutting the head off might help remove the bearing assembly. That's assuming the bolt isn't also rusted solid in between those 2 points.

 

A good cold chisel and a BFH, bust the wheel bearing casting. Put the chisel over the bolt hole and bolt (the thinnest spot on the side of the casting), smack the chisel a few times very hard and it should bust off around the bolt. Then pound the bolt out of the knuckle. Wear safety glasses and gloves.

 

Yes lolol I meant Knuckle was typing without thinking.. kinda like how i talk.. without thinking :P
It must be because I shattered the head on a brand new 1/2" breaker bar and its not moved at all.


I guess thats my options if i can get the bearing hub off i can setup punch and hit it with my 3 pounder and see if i can drive the bolt out of the knuckle

 

UPDATE: They sold me the wrong wheel bearing and the cheapest i can get the right one for is $180 so that sucks so i am going to cold chisel the head of the old bolt and see if i can get the whole bolt to com out the front of the knuckle or at least come out enough to cut it without destroying the wheel bearing.

 

Do you have a nice thick 14mm box end wrench? Give it a try and that 3lb hammer, you might bend the wrench but it might just come out for you. Yes the wrench is stronger than the breaker bar.

 

yes, the unitized hub bearings are very expensive. i originally bought a set of timkens for $180 each that have been very good. but - i had a noise that i suspected might be a bearing (but it wasn't) and i changed one of them out. i bought a cheaper set from amazon and ebay for $90 each. one was a Precision and the other was substituted to a BCA. both have been good.


did you try the atf and acetone yet?

 

You need to rent or buy a good 1/2" drive electric or air impact wrench. And an impact socket (14mm 12 point as stated) forwarding and reversing the tool will break them/it loose.

 

its not a matter of tooling now.. the bolt head is rounded and a 14 just spins and its screwed. i'm going to cut the head off.


also what else has to be removed/dissembled other than the shock to replace the coil.. i noticed its cracked and i am not going to risk it i'd like to replace it while its half disassembled already. I didn't do the first coil swap so I am unsure and from the looks all of it needs to be disconnected and the axle lowered away from the truck..

 

Well that sucks don't it.

Some use coil spring compressors others drop the diff. If you drop the diff I would disconnect the sway-bar, trac-bar at the diff end and thats about it. Make sure you use good jack-stands under the frame and wherever else needed.

Edit; Remove the brake caliper just to be safe hang it from the frame, no need to bust a hose.

Edit 2; Fwiw I don't think I would cut the head off the bolt, If there is room I would work the other end with a drill and some good bits. Drill that bolt out to the hub threads then try working it. It will be hard to get that hub bearing out with a sized bolt to knuckle attached to it.

Tried a pipe wrench yet, if theres room?

 

well appearntly I am far more rugged than that bolt.. as I just about sheared the head of it off.. so I took a grinder to it and cut it off and. Now it still won't come off and honestly i'm getting tired of this thing.. I can clearly see around the bolt its ground off cleanly with a gap around it.. but I can't pound it out at all.. Any ideas?? I think some how it got hot and its stuck.....