Downloading now. Thanks.

 

You have a 97, a Haynes manual will also help, (better testing descriptions) than the download. But you should have both. Trust me on this.

I'm thinking you may want to change something here? Mr grouchy

 

Just wanted to update. Truck would not idle at all this morning and disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing, so I went ahead and replaced the IAC today with one from NAPA (About $35.00) and it runs perfect again. Appreciate the help and suggestions. Good to have it running again like it should..

 

don't throw out the old one. you may want to clean it and set it aside just in case. those cheap ones have a tendency of failing. i think Wombat Ranger went through 2 or 3 and was lucky they had the big chain store warranty on them so they were replaced for free.

 

I kept the old one and the new one has a year warranty on it. I also saw where the cheap ones failed alot, so at least if it does, I can return it. But at least I know what the problem is now. So are the only good ones factory?

 

the factory ones tend to be better quality but they are expensive to replace. plus in most cases the stock one does not really fail. it just gets really dirty and stops working but in most cases if you clean them up they will usually work fine again. i know i saved my mom $400 by cleaning the IAC on her Honda. it only took a few minute to clean with some break cleaner once i got it out.

 

I cleaned the old one first, but it didn't help. Hopefully this solved the problem and it will last for a while. I noticed when I pulled the old IAC out that the "pintle" was fully extended and closing off the airflow to the throttle body. Would that be the normal position when the truck is shut down?

 

i am not sure. i would have just compared it to the new one.

 

New ones will be at least partially retracted, so your aren't trying to force the pintle in, when you are tightening the sensor down. Have to disconnect the battery, to reset the PCM, so that when you next try and start, the PCM will "re-zero" the IAC. (and any other sensors....)