I recently picked up a 95 V10 Auto 4x4 Ex Cab long bed. Had a light front end collision with bumper removed so Condenser, Tranny cooler, and radiator all got pushed back A/C still ice cold so doesn't leak, but radiator is toast so I need to replace that and lines to the cooler got smashed. Buddy has a radiator out of a 5spd Cummins all dimensions and what not seem the same except it does not have the ports on the side of the radiator for tranny lines.

What exactly do these do, can I eliminate it?

Also the shifter moves really stiff, I have no feel for gears at all, im wondering if this is related to the accident, the lack of tranny fluid flow due to the crushed lines or just the nature of a 47RH?

I cant see any physical binding of the linkage on the outside of tranny.

 

Those 2 ports are part of the tranny cooling/heating process. You can bypass them , but I'd add an aftermarket cooler anyway. Depending on where you live, the tranny needs to get up to temp in real cold weather.

As far as the shifting goes, you simply need to inspect ALL the linkage and see if you have something bent, broken or rusted. It should work easily.(check at the end of the column coming out of the firewall also)

 

get an auxillary cooler and mount on the front of the AC condenser.

anything similar to this-
there's a small cooler at the beginning and big one at the end of it.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ter-added.html

 

Well good to hear I can buy pass it then. I just tried my own radiator repair just to see, I got the leaks slowed down enough a guy can drive it but I wouldnt take it anywhere. I just have the lines running through my new replacement cooler right now, none to the radiator. All seems to work good. What kind of pressure do the cooler lines see. Can is just a hose clamp good enough or do I need to get fitting put on them?

 

So long as the end of the tubes are flared just a bit, clamps should be just fine.

 

the pressure is not real high, no more than 30-40 psi. if your fittings are barbed, a single clamp is fine and it won't slip off. if your hose is just slipped over a slick line that's been trimmed off (no barbs), then a double clamp is a little more secure. tug on the hose and make sure it doesn't want to slide off.

 

I initialy had mine set up the same way when I had to replace my trans.
When it got colder out it would not shift into OD until trans was good and warm.
Had to replace the radiator and ran the lines from the aux cooler to radiator cooler
and back to trans so PCM would receive correct temp signal from trans to shift into OD.

Dave

 

I was in local auto parts store and saw a cooler kit. I didnt grab it but looks like comes with an cooler about foot and a half by foot and a half. Right now Im just running a stock cooler from a halfton cause I had it laying here from my NV4500 swap. Thinking maybe pick this up and see how big it is compared to stock. I might have a lead on a radiator for an auto, but I already cut the hoses off so im not sure if ill worry about it now. I dont know how long I'll be keeping this. Was hoping to fix it up pretty cheap having most of the parts already laying here and turn it, but starting to look like the honest way to do this is going to get expensive.

Thinking another NV4500 swap may be in my future haha.