I paid $150 to have a set of longtubes coated locally here a few years ago. I don't think there's really a point to it (other than cosmetic) if you can't do the inside also though. Since they were used I don't know if they could get the inside clean enough.

 

As in cork and rubber gasket material or...?

 

Yeah, I think my father paid about $100 for them for them, so I don't think I'll be spending much more than he paid for them.

Are the headers I have pictured long tubes or no? I'm a little new to the exhaust scene...

 

No, those are shorties. you can usually tell by whether or not the headers will bolt up to the factory y-pipe...shorties usually will, long tubes will not.

 

Coating is to keep the heat inside the headers. It also acts as a protective covering to prevent rust. here again, prep work is the key. Coating the inside of used headers may or may not be effective, as it is difficult to get them clean enough for the coating to stick well. (and, on most, it is really hard to look..... )

For every 10 degrees you reduce underhood temps, (intake air charge....) you can pick up one horsepower. Supposedly.

 

There is a lot of tools to remove and install studs, even broken ones. SEARS has a great selection of said tools as well.

http://www.bing.com/search?q=sears%2...7&ShowAppsUI=1

http://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-...d+removal+tool

Work smarter, not harder. Get the right tool for the job and you will be amazed how easy it can be. Good luck.

 

never use a stud remover. you will be even more pissed off when you snap one of those trying to get a bolt out of a hole. reverse drill bit are about the best way to do it.

before you even touch a exhaust manifold bolt you should be hitting it with penetrating oil every day for at least a week straight before trying to tackle the job.

 

No, it was a sheet of Mr. Gasket gasket material I got at an auto parts store. The stuff was suitable for exhaust flange gaskets. Definitely not cork and rubber. This was quite a few years ago.