broken bolt at intake manifold
#1
broken bolt at intake manifold
well guys, im installing my Hughes Plenum Kit. im pretty handy with all things mechanical. However, as i was removing manifold the front right bolt was seized in place, bolt broke, but i can still get some vise grips on it pretty good. What do you guys suggest on how to extract this thing? ive dug all the crap that was PACKED in around the bolt have been soaking it with PB Blaster too. i havent tried the vise grips yet, just been soaking it every few hours. dont want it to break down at block if at all possible. so if any body out there has run into this and conquered it or has a brilliant idea to extract it?? thanks in advance.
#2
You should be able to go for the vise grips now. Get it locked on good. You should now fairly early how it responds. It located further out on the block makes it more prone to temp shifts and also applying some heat to the block part only will help. It will grow slightly, but also pull PB fluid down inside.
Your other option is to use an extractor drilled in. Other ppl here have some good suggestions on that, but that is a last resort anyways.
Your other option is to use an extractor drilled in. Other ppl here have some good suggestions on that, but that is a last resort anyways.
#3
#4
I have worked around engines for years. I always try to muscle everything and end up snapping bolts and studs more often than I like. Things I have done, mix 9/10ths transmission fluid with 1/10th PB Blaster or AEROKROIL. This stuff works in this quantity for froze engines as well. Just a few squirts per cylinder and let it sit over night.
Then I (don't always) can add a little heat from my torch or a map gas canister (applied to the head). After the area is glowing slightly I will squirt a few squirts of the mixture on the stud only. It smokes and stinks but, cools the stud down quickly. The cooling down causes the stud to shrink (old machine shop trick for removing those Allen head freeze plugs off of the back of the old engines).
Lock your pliers on the stud (make sure it is cooled off) and apply pressure. It should come out fairly easy. If that does not work, Sears has some club head easy outs that I have used and they work great as well. I believe you can only buy them in single sizes (in my area). Do not muscle it, it will come out. You just have to give it a little foreplay.
Good luck and take your time, it can not be rushed or it will take a lot longer. Worst case scenario, you have to drill it in the center, use and easy out and then tap it upon removal (yuck!).
Then I (don't always) can add a little heat from my torch or a map gas canister (applied to the head). After the area is glowing slightly I will squirt a few squirts of the mixture on the stud only. It smokes and stinks but, cools the stud down quickly. The cooling down causes the stud to shrink (old machine shop trick for removing those Allen head freeze plugs off of the back of the old engines).
Lock your pliers on the stud (make sure it is cooled off) and apply pressure. It should come out fairly easy. If that does not work, Sears has some club head easy outs that I have used and they work great as well. I believe you can only buy them in single sizes (in my area). Do not muscle it, it will come out. You just have to give it a little foreplay.
Good luck and take your time, it can not be rushed or it will take a lot longer. Worst case scenario, you have to drill it in the center, use and easy out and then tap it upon removal (yuck!).
#6
Grab with the vice grips, hit it with some more chemicals, tap lightly on the end of the bolt while trying to turn in BOTH directions with the vice grips. It should break loose.
Keep in mind, part of the bolt pokes down into open air, and likes to crud up and corrode. That's what makes 'em fun to get out. Just work it back and forth until the threads are clear enough to back it out all the way.
Keep in mind, part of the bolt pokes down into open air, and likes to crud up and corrode. That's what makes 'em fun to get out. Just work it back and forth until the threads are clear enough to back it out all the way.
#7
I broke the same bolt last week. Soaked it in PB and hit it a few times with a hammer and then gently used vice grips and mine came out whole. I had been hitting the bolts with chems for 3 days so if you haven't been be extra slow. I have no experience drilling things out and worried about breaking it off worse and just walked away and got to work xleaning the IM. in the
End I was lucky enough it snapped right at the head of the bolt and I had a lot to grab onto. It was actually long enough it saved me cutting one bolt to use as a stud to align the IM for install. TAKE YOUR TIME soak and a few taps with a hammer helped me out as it has done before.
End I was lucky enough it snapped right at the head of the bolt and I had a lot to grab onto. It was actually long enough it saved me cutting one bolt to use as a stud to align the IM for install. TAKE YOUR TIME soak and a few taps with a hammer helped me out as it has done before.
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#8
Thanks to all who replied. It came out really easy after i dug all the crap out around it, few taps with hammer and letting it soak for a day with PB on it!
Im guessing it was prolly be patient and allowing the PB to do its magic.
All in all, the Hughes Plenum repair is super easy to do. I'd like to say to those whom havent yet done it and are contemplating DIY or taking it to the shop. Do it yourself, save some money its easy and doesnt take more than about 10 hrs. cheers!!!
Im guessing it was prolly be patient and allowing the PB to do its magic.
All in all, the Hughes Plenum repair is super easy to do. I'd like to say to those whom havent yet done it and are contemplating DIY or taking it to the shop. Do it yourself, save some money its easy and doesnt take more than about 10 hrs. cheers!!!
#10