the mixture of plain water-antifreeze is not the problem, running "only" water is the problem, antifreeze extends boiling point, you have a risk there, i didn't trust either and that cost me around $1000 in parts at that time, seriously hope that don't happen to you,

 

Water at atmospheric pressure boils at 212 degrees. Put it under 16 pounds of pressure, and the boiling point goes up to around 250 degrees. Running straight water only causes rust issues, and lack of lubrication for the water pump bearing...... which can REALLY cause some interesting problems.

I know the flush wants you to run with straight water, and their fine chemicals. Won't hurt it for a day or three.

I haven't found an over the counter flush that works worth a damn though...... The cooling system in my van is horribly corroded. (extreme neglect by previous owner.) Even after three treatments over three months, running the stuff for a couple days, and then flushing it out... my coolant is only green till the first time the thermostat opens, then it is deep dark red......

If anyone has suggestions for one that actually works, I am all ears.

 

IF you don't have any leaks, and the block and heads aren't aluminum, mix Baking soda into some PURE water, no antifreeze allowed, then run it a little bit. Should help ALOT

 

Ok so heres a little update if anyone cares:

Drained water- came out clear.

Filled cooling system back up with 50/50 G-05.

Disconnected battery and pumped brakes to reset pcm.

Unplugged drivers side O2, plugged it back in (starting small with the O2 code).

Reconnected battery, started it up and drove around until the engine reached operating temp.

Came home, parked it, did the key trick and came up with:
Code 12 (obv, because I just unhooked the battery).
Code 21 (O2 sensor).
No code 17...replacing coolant temp sensor when Napa gets it tomorrow just cuz.

In reference to the code 21, driver's side sensor is about 3 weeks old and is NTK brand. Wires are free of any damage, burning, etc.

Passenger's side is also NTK and is about 1 year old. Have not checked the harness for that one yet.

CEL is still not illuminated but PCM is still detecting a malfunctioning O2...?

Sorry for the novel. Thanks for the help.

Edit*- There are 3 connectors for the driver's side O2 sensor. They are all Female and the O2 is male...
2 connectors are grey and 1 is black.
Old O2 was plugged into a grey connector, new one would not fit in either gray connector, but fit perfectly into the black connector.
I could see the O2 not being plugged into the proper connector being a problem, but it seems as though Dodge planned for this and made auxiliary connection points to accommodate several different types/brand of O2?
I'll try to get a picture up later.

 

wires looked fine on other O2.

Passenger O2:



3 connectors:



Does it matter which one the sensor plugs into?

 

Unhooked both sensors yesterday and measured resistance with a volt meter thingy.

Drivers:


Passenger:


Both readings are in ohms.

Both readings were taken when sensors were cold.

service manual states that I should be seeing a resistance of 5-7 ohms across both white wires. Doesn't specify hot or cold.

Is the passenger O2 reading too low for the PCM to register?

I am getting juice from the harness at each O2 connection point.

 

Is your truck california emissions by any chance?

 

Not that i am aware of....please elaborate.

Don't tell me that those two auxiliary sensor connectors are for rear O2's...I'd be heart broken HA!

 

96 *should* be OBDII...... Is your diagnostic connector rectangular, or kinda "D" shaped?

Wiring diagram shows only pre-cat O2 sensors.... (one on each side.)

What's the date of manufacture of your truck? (should be on door sticker in drivers side door frame.)

 

Date of manufacture: 11-95.

I took a look under the knee bolster and found the OBD II scan port zip tied to one of the dash supports...? Must have been from original owner.

Hooked the scan tool up to it, live data showed no change in output from sensor #1, along with a P0132 code.

Replaced the sensor and all is good. It's finally running like a V10 again.

No more stored codes!!

I was under the impression it was OBD I.

Thanks a ton HeyYou, never would have gotten that without you.