360 upgrade
#1
360 upgrade
I am going to be swapping in a 360 in my 99 ram but I am going to upgrade the motor first has any one used this kit http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=26112
#2
Ouch. Serious money....
58cc heads... gonna bump compression ratio a bit. Not a problem.
Cam is a regrind..... not sure how I feel about that.
I think you could put together a list of similar parts, for a lot less money. The heads are probably most of the cost there..... You can find new heads, with bigger valves (2.02 intake) than stock, for around 600-800 for a pair. (probably half the cost of the eddy's.) New cam with similar specs will run about a hundred more than the what hughes gets for the regrinds.
If you are going to get new rockers, go with full roller. (1.6 or 1.7 ratio. Make sure the folks you talk to about a cam are aware of what ratio you want to run....)
JUST changing from the stock rockers to the Harland Sharp 1.7 ratio (stock is 1.6) is good for 10hp/tq. They run around 300 or so.
58cc heads... gonna bump compression ratio a bit. Not a problem.
Cam is a regrind..... not sure how I feel about that.
I think you could put together a list of similar parts, for a lot less money. The heads are probably most of the cost there..... You can find new heads, with bigger valves (2.02 intake) than stock, for around 600-800 for a pair. (probably half the cost of the eddy's.) New cam with similar specs will run about a hundred more than the what hughes gets for the regrinds.
If you are going to get new rockers, go with full roller. (1.6 or 1.7 ratio. Make sure the folks you talk to about a cam are aware of what ratio you want to run....)
JUST changing from the stock rockers to the Harland Sharp 1.7 ratio (stock is 1.6) is good for 10hp/tq. They run around 300 or so.
#3
WOW we have gone from wanting to do a gear swap, then to advancing the timing, to changing our torque converter for better take off, to an engine swap that at first was a 70-80's engine and is now a 94 engine.
Why don't we get some of the other stuff out of the way first. Go update your profile and list the year, model and modifications you've done to your truck. Those of us who have read all your Question threads might know this stuff but someone just reading this doesn't.
Next try telling us what it is your after, a good daily driver that you can run on the track on the weekend? Or a toy that will be trailered to the track? Or a tow rig that will also be a DD? Or a good on the fuel rig that will see light/heavy tow duty once or twice a year? Just a pile you want to throw a ton of many at?
We can't help you until we know what it is that you want this engine to do and what your truck is going to do. So how about answering some questions first and then maybe we can answer yours???
Why don't we get some of the other stuff out of the way first. Go update your profile and list the year, model and modifications you've done to your truck. Those of us who have read all your Question threads might know this stuff but someone just reading this doesn't.
Next try telling us what it is your after, a good daily driver that you can run on the track on the weekend? Or a toy that will be trailered to the track? Or a tow rig that will also be a DD? Or a good on the fuel rig that will see light/heavy tow duty once or twice a year? Just a pile you want to throw a ton of many at?
We can't help you until we know what it is that you want this engine to do and what your truck is going to do. So how about answering some questions first and then maybe we can answer yours???
#5
If your going to follow thru on this then here is my suggestions for you.
The parts in that list sound all good and well but that is only your top end.
Running aluminum heads takes more prep of your block plus can be a pain and take more maintenance than running iron heads.
You need to rebuild the 360 that your getting so that you know what it is that you got. If you have a weak bottom end and you bolt all that stuff onto it you'll make any parts that were close to failing fail faster.
1) Take you engine apart and take the block, crank & pistons to a machine shop. Have them hot tank the block, replace all the freeze plugs with brass plugs, new cam bearings & check all your tolerances. If any machine work needs to be done then talk with the shop and decide the best route to go. Only bore the block .020 or .030 if you can.
2) Get some new higher compression pistons in the 9.75-10.25 range. Raising your compression will help you with power and your bottom end as long as you get a good cam to go with it.
3) Talk to tons of people and call the cam manufacturers and give them your engine specs. Even if you don't buy one of their cams their advice is good to have.
4) You have your choice of rockers and as others have wrote you're going to want to use roller rockers. Stock ratio is 1.6:1 and then you can get 1.65:1 or 1.7:1 ratios if you want. When you're picking your cam you have to know what ratio of rockers you are going to run.
5) Get a pair or EQ heads from Odessa or Clearwater in FL. Tell them how much total lift you're looking at so they can install the correct springs for you. Also go with the larger intake valve. They make them with a 2.02 intake and a 1.65 exhaust. Out of the box these heads flow good enough for 450-500HP.
6) New intake. You can get the Air Gap from Hughes or an M1 from ? They are both good intakes and it is like Ford or Chevy when asking people which intake to get. Then get a 52mm or larger bored throttle body.
Start out with 24lb injectors and you might have to go larger.
7) Wide Band Air/Fuel gauge & Tuner
8) Torque converter sized for your engine.
9) Long tube headers & y-pipe. Talk to Redneck about this he has one on his truck.
The parts in that list sound all good and well but that is only your top end.
Running aluminum heads takes more prep of your block plus can be a pain and take more maintenance than running iron heads.
You need to rebuild the 360 that your getting so that you know what it is that you got. If you have a weak bottom end and you bolt all that stuff onto it you'll make any parts that were close to failing fail faster.
1) Take you engine apart and take the block, crank & pistons to a machine shop. Have them hot tank the block, replace all the freeze plugs with brass plugs, new cam bearings & check all your tolerances. If any machine work needs to be done then talk with the shop and decide the best route to go. Only bore the block .020 or .030 if you can.
2) Get some new higher compression pistons in the 9.75-10.25 range. Raising your compression will help you with power and your bottom end as long as you get a good cam to go with it.
3) Talk to tons of people and call the cam manufacturers and give them your engine specs. Even if you don't buy one of their cams their advice is good to have.
4) You have your choice of rockers and as others have wrote you're going to want to use roller rockers. Stock ratio is 1.6:1 and then you can get 1.65:1 or 1.7:1 ratios if you want. When you're picking your cam you have to know what ratio of rockers you are going to run.
5) Get a pair or EQ heads from Odessa or Clearwater in FL. Tell them how much total lift you're looking at so they can install the correct springs for you. Also go with the larger intake valve. They make them with a 2.02 intake and a 1.65 exhaust. Out of the box these heads flow good enough for 450-500HP.
6) New intake. You can get the Air Gap from Hughes or an M1 from ? They are both good intakes and it is like Ford or Chevy when asking people which intake to get. Then get a 52mm or larger bored throttle body.
Start out with 24lb injectors and you might have to go larger.
7) Wide Band Air/Fuel gauge & Tuner
8) Torque converter sized for your engine.
9) Long tube headers & y-pipe. Talk to Redneck about this he has one on his truck.
Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; 09-01-2013 at 08:37 AM.
#7
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#9
How do you know what your HP rating is? Are these numbers from a engine calculator?
#10