Have taken care to route wires per the tsb. Shop hooked up their scope, I believe, this morning and couldn't find why it only misses at idle. Very slight miss, but it's there. This shop wants to look at injectors and spray pattern, Does that seem like a logical step? Prior shop was going to do a cylinder leakdown. Compression is pretty steady in the 180psi area. Or is this a good excuse to put better heads on her like Master tech suggested?

 

Might be as simple as a lean-burn miss. At idle, the PCM tends to pull a fair bit of fuel. Especially in park..... If you have the scratch to pay them..... go for it.

 

So far haven't had to pay for diagnostics, but will gladly pay the man. A lean miss could be caused by improper flow from injectors?.

 

That makes me wonder about the tps then, because the 2nd guy's scan tool said the tps was at zero, when it should of been showing 3 to 5 percent. According to him his scan data showed the throttle blades were closed all the time, even when holding it at 1500 rpm's. That should mean somehting? And the 3rd guy who looked at it didn;t think it was the tps and don't know if he even looked at the percentage. I don't mind getting new and better heads, but not just doing it as an experiment.https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/...s/confused.gif

 

That makes me wonder about the tps then, because the 2nd guy's scan tool said the tps was at zero, when it should of been showing 3 to 5 percent. According to him his scan data showed the throttle blades were closed all the time, even when holding it at 1500 rpm's. That should mean somehting? And the 3rd guy who looked at it didn;t think it was the tps and don't know if he even looked at the percentage. I don't mind getting new and better heads, but not just doing it as an experiment.

 

If you were stepping on the gas, and TPS still showed zero, it's bad, and needs to be replaced.

 

Replaced TPS with a known good one from my other 01 that was totaled last april. Much better throttle response,less jumpiness at idle. One thing I did different that I read somewhere, after replacing and hooking negative battery cable back up was to turn the key on, don't start, then using the throttle lever, open throttle blades to WOT position and hold for 30 sec, then repeat. Supposed to give the PCM a better reading of the full angle movement,that you can't do with engine running , obviously. Seemed to work good.
Also put back wires that were on it when i got it and wasn't having these issues. Will be doing the scanner thing saturday to see if it's still misfiring at idle. OCD!

 

Looks like Master Tech was right about cracks in heads. Ruled out everything else. Guessing the seafoam cleaned out carbon that was masking symptoms when i bought the truck, if the cracks are at the valve seats. Compression is good so cracks can't be between cylinders. Really should have done a leakdown to be absolutely sure.
Guess I shoud've bought the warranty , but hindsight is, well you know. The misfires are at idle only and aren't severe enough to throw the CEL light. So I'll get some better heads for early xmas to myself.
Clearwater Odessa heads have been mentioned a lot, any others i should consider to be done with this once and for all?

 

Just went out and was going to pull plugs to do quick compression check. I grabbed a paper towel and held it up to the exhaust while letting it warm up a little and it darn near sucked it right in. That's the first time it's done that since i got the truck 5 weeks ago. So grabbed the vacuum gauge and it was at 18 but a little jumpy. This all got worse after doing seafoam through the BB line. I don't know if caused things to get worse or just uncovered what was already there. Cracks and bad valve seats. Should I stay away from reman heads or just get new? I've got over 7,000.00 into it already with exhaust work. I don't know what to do anymore. It has to be a quick job as this my work truck. So, for the long run would new heads be the way to go?

P.s This forum beats anything else out there. Thanks for all the past info.

 

I think you'd be better off with the Clearwater/Odessa heads or the improved (thicker I believe) castings that can be found on e-bay iirc (from what I've read, the first option is definitely optimal)....I'm not so sure about the typical remans you can find at places like AAP and AZ......