Just get some fluid on the inside of the seal where the driveshaft rides. Don't worry 'bout anywhere else. Just putting it on the end of the driveshaft is generally insufficient, as the seal wipes it off as you slide it in. Should be a double lip seal? Get fluid between the two lips. It HAS to be lubricated good, or you just burn it up in short order.

 

Cool thanks will do

 

OK, after after 5 yrs being rebuilt and 22k mi Finally was able to change out the tailshaft seal and fluid. wasn't hard at all. change out the fluid first, that took the longest. loosen the bolts and gave the pan alittle knock and broke loose. cleaned pan, bolts and pan flange, new filter, gasket,pan bolts torqued to 80 then 120 in pnds allows me more torque if needed. torque indicates 150-156 from this forum. instructions said 120 so I went with that and if it leaks then I will goto the 150. I did put some of the bolts through the pan with the gasket and that worked out great to hold it in place.

The seal was really easy. marked drive shaft removed rear drive shaft flange bolts. removed drive shaft I used a seal puller made it really easy. Lubed new seal, I used a 2in coupler pvc fitted over the seal & little piece of board to knock it on...this worked for me just fine. re-torque the bolts to 80 ft pounds I believe. Done!!! now just watch out for leaks!!

 

13 foot pounds and check them in a few days.

 

will do...
Thanks dodge forum for your help..

 

Go to the FAQ/DIY section and download the 2001 service manual.

 

If you only have an inch pound torque wrench, go with 156 inch pounds as you stated, then re torque in a few days. Don't go over 160 or the pan will start to bend where the bolts go. If you or someone else has muscled them on, there is a good chance it is already bent. It's always a good idea to make sure the pan is flat. A 3/4" piece of wood and hammer will help you flatten out the area around the holes.