some of ya may know what im talkin bout in past threads. but im gettin a missfire type POP normally only a single pop when under load at low rpms. it never threw a code for a misfire. well i got a check engine light today and got it read, it was for the egr. the light never tripped until i put in my new dizzy. but now it does for some odd reason. i deleted the egr a while back when i put on my headers and the FI airgap. the guy at the shop i stopped at, i told the problem i have been chasing to him, and he told me that deleting the egr can caused a misfire type symtom,basically pinging, and normally it would be doing it around the rpms that i described to him. im not gonna change everything back on a hunch...since it is basically the last thing i have not done or checked. but can i hook the pcm up to a laptop and change the file, and turn off the egr option in the pcm? its worth a shot...

like i have said before it doesnt do it ALL the time, mostly under load at low rpms 1400-2000 range when going up a hill in overdrive or something to the sort, sometimes even on level surface if you put ur foot hard into it but from a dead stop...other than the single pop or 2, once its past those rpms, its a BEAST like its supposed to be.

 

I honestly find it rather hard to believe that deleting EGR, something that PUTS carbon INTO your intake would cause a ping. And I don't know of anyway to crack into a Dodge pcm minus buying a whole different performance PCM.

 

The EGR system is used to lower combustion chamber temps. Get rid of the EGR and temps rise. Rising temps mean it's more prone to ping.

 

Did you ever get the fuel sync set with a drb meter or just the 30-30-30 way. If not take it to a shop and have it set right, chances are your problems will go away.

 

i did the 30-30-30. seems to be better, but i dunno if its right or not, since i cant hook it uip to a computer. but it does seems better... the pop is less aggressive lets say. if i want a shop to look at it with the laptop and set it dead on, then ima have to get a little cash, right now i have higher priorities, but i did ask a shop and he said 80 bucks he would do it. but ima call and ask another one also. if they did set it back to 0 and i still have the prob then im a a total loss, besides this egr idea. yes your correct no egr means higher temps and more prone to ping....like i said it doesnt do it all the time just when it wants to...but when it does its in that rpm range usually.

 

It needs to be set with a drb scanner, $80 is about right cheaper than a new motor that needs replacing because its running lean or fat. + 6 is the starting point with your mods.

CP from krc performance

Some of the symptoms that the sync signal is incorrect, you will get back firing through the intake manifold; vehicle will not idle or you will get major detonation at light loads causing the vehicle to lose severe power over 3000 rpm.

 

yea i have read that page, and thats why i was leaning towards the sync. but after doin g the 30-30-30 thing it figure it would be close to 0. but your saying with my mods i actually need +6 like krc says they start out with...even if i dont have a custom cam?

 

Thats where I would start and go from there. Get your $80 worth of there time take it for a trip after each setting until it spot on.

 

and we are saying just +6 on the fuel sync? or on both ignition and fuel sync?

 

Ignition timing isn't adjustable. Turning the distributor ONLY changes fuel sync. Does not change ignition at all.