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Leaf Spring Eye Bolts

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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #11  
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Get the new shackles it's worth it. It took me three blades per bolt to cut through them good milwaukie blades to. As for just moving the gas tank ya right been there tried that might as well have just removed the tank it was the only thing I did not do. After undoing everything hooked to the pump and the fuel fill line and vent line for fear of breaking it I just had enough room to get my fingers in there to hold the bolt with the straps at full relaxe.

Edit: At least your shackle bolts came out mine were rock solid to the bushing.

Pix just cuz.

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Last edited by merc225hp; Sep 15, 2013 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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We're thinking alike I just went ahead and ordered new ones. I didn't feel like dealing with removing the old shackles from the old leafs either. I will grab them when I rip down to Houlton, ME this weekend. I will need to pick up new bolts for the new leaf springs as well - I suspect nothing special, just grabbing a bolt from Home Depot or Home Hardware will do?

One thing about this Skyjacker kit... the instructions are great and all, but I've got a lot of stuff that came with it that are NOT mentioned in the instructions. Like a ****load of bushings that are clearly not body mount bushings, so no clue what they are. Some hardware and a few other things to sort out.

Random note - the SS brake line I ordered was not what I thought it was. It _is_ the brake line that goes from the frame/angle bracket down to the axle and has the square brass piece which looks like a junction - but I had expected more cable to run out to each drum. Oh well. I'll keep an eye out for stuff on sale.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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Grade 5 or better 14mm dia so no not just your ordinary bolt.

Post picks of the extra parts in one of your threads and send them to me in a email see what we can do to help you out. E brake cable like stuff? Nope not needed.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Grade 5 or better 14mm dia so no not just your ordinary bolt.

Post picks of the extra parts in one of your threads and send them to me in a email see what we can do to help you out. E brake cable like stuff? Nope not needed.
Will do.

And I wish I could merge all my random truck threads on here ;o) I started on the reman of the rear brakes. Fun times, never done it before, but found an outstanding DIY on here (as usual), my service manual, and just went with it!

It looked pretty bad to me, had to wire-brush a few parts to clean them up. Glad I went ahead and ordered as many parts as I did:


ROUGH!!!


Just as rough in my opinion, but I've also never done this before.


Old parts


Old shoes and more...


New Parts!


One cleaned up, one more to go

I had to remove the angle bracket for the brake line, which is supposed to be lowered for the lift (which, I don't actually think I need to do anymore since I have the 8" SS braided line).



However, as you can likely see, the hard line going into that bracket is pretty corroded and well - it's leaking now. Oh well. One more thing to add to the list!

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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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Got it done. Was some swearing involved when putting on the shoes.

Hopefully it's correct, though, not entirely sure as it does not look like the adjuster can easily be adjusted.







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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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I take it back, easily adjustable. While the drum is on. Hmmm... I don't think it's adjustable with the drum / wheel on though. It looks like there is punch / cutouts but they have not been.

Should make for interest on the driver side since I can't seem to get that drum to budge despite hammer and penetrating oil.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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It's right, you need to punch out the metal tabs in the backing plate to adjust when the drum is on, don't forget to put rubber plugs in the holes after you are done.

For the stuck drum, if you have a new drum try a BFH that might work, or you might need to back off the shoes through the backing plate holes.

Edit; I have had to remove the axle and the drum as one piece, then beat the drum off the axle once out. This involves removing the diff cover and the c clip inside the pumpkin.
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Sep 18, 2013 at 12:54 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
It's right, you need to punch out the metal tabs in the backing plate to adjust when the drum is on, don't forget to put rubber plugs in the holes after you are done.

For the stuck drum, if you have a new drum try a BFH that might work, or you might need to back off the shoes through the backing plate holes.

Edit; I have had to remove the axle and the drum as one piece, then beat the drum off the axle once out. This involves removing the diff cover and the c clip inside the pumpkin.
I figured as much for the punches - the refurb kits I bought come with rubber plugs. I'll take a punch and hammer and knock atleast one out on each side.

As for that other drum.... I really hope it isn't THAT much of a hassle. Don't feel like doing that ;o)

Going to see if I can punch out the adjustment slot on the stuck side and ease the brakes off first.

Edit: BFH won the day. Thankfully I did purchase extra drums!
 

Last edited by InfO; Sep 18, 2013 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Because I won.
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