Not to sure where you are getting your part numbers from but they are indeed different balancers. One is an internally balanced engine the other is externally balanced.

Mopar part numbers for 96
5302 0182 1 DAMPER, Vibration 5.9
5302 0229 1 DAMPER, Vibration 5.2

Mopar part numbers for 2001
5302 0182 DAMPER, Crankshaft 5.9
5302 0229 DAMPER, Crankshaft 5.2

 

My truck (96 1500 4x4 5.2 auto) may have had the "death flash" years ago when the dealer changed out the plenum gasket. I put a Hemifever programmer on it recently; it may have helped. I'm getting ready to change out the 3.55 gears (and worn 265 tires) for 4.10 gears to go with some new 285/75/16" tires waiting in my garage. I have a slightly larger throttle body on the engine, and that with an open air element it felt like I lost some of my bottom end. I put the factory air cleaner back on. Someday I'd like to put some 1.7 rockers on it. But for now I'm just enjoying the ride - not trying to be a hotrod.

 

Let take that back because i was looking today and i used the balancer that was on the motor ! The 360 still has the one on it !

 

Check this article out http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...e/viewall.html

 

Without taking the motor apart, headers w/2.5" mandrel-bent exhaust, high flow muffler and cat, and a tune from Sean is a great place to start. If someone makes a decent intake, that would be next. Personally that is where I would stop.

 

Since you're improving the flow from the outside world to the inlet port, and improving the flow from the exhaust port to the the outside world, fitting H&S1.7's would finish it off by improving the flow to/from the actual cylinders.

 

Would seriously wakeup the motor with the other boltons.

 

Personally I would not stroke and force induce it, you are making the walls thin and then putting more stress on them...it's a bit risky for me.

If you are hell bent on keeping your 318 there are plenty of cheap bolt ons and add ons to get a little bit of kick out of it, but I remind you they will not be large gains, and even in total I don't see more then 40 hp gains from it in total.

Plenum fix, if you have not does this already fix it, since it needs to be taken off might as well replace it with a M1 intake to gain hp back that you lost and get a little more. Also change the thermo to a 180 degree.

Air systems, K&N cold air intake (hp increase only in high rpm areas) and a 50mm throttle body (50mm is enough for naturally asperated engines) and maybe straight pipe the exhaust, but that is your own risk.

Electrical, a lot of people like copper spark plugs but I use Iridum and they work great, upgrade to 8.5 or 9mm plug wires and a performance distributor cap. Then get a stage two chip for a bump on power and economy, works great with the thermo and CAI kit.

And lubes, full synthetic all around, tranni, engine, power steering, break, everything. I prefer amsoil in my truck and the cost for me was $59 for 6 quarts, filter, and a bottle of engine flush.

Doing all that should recover lost HP from age, clean the system up and help keep it going, and gain you a little hp on the side. The truck will sound meaner and stronger, run smoother, last longer, and you will be pushing around 40 hp over stock after all is said and done.

Next steps would be RV cams, robs, springs, 1.7rr lifters etc etc.

 

I found this on the web and thought it was a good idea of what your looking for, as in what to change to make power.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...y-time-engine/

I also found this on the same site about thermostats, interesting read as many are wondering what is the benefit of changing to a 180 degree from factory.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...the-advantage/

 

This article was good as well on radiator caps.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...-radiator-cap/