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  #21  
Old 12-18-2013 | 06:57 PM
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if you wanted to buy some time, you can try intentionally running the front diff oil level a little less than full. when full it leaks more. when a little low, (like finger tip level in the fill hole, rather than running out) ...it might leak a little less, maybe a lot less.

below are the links.

you have to remove drivers side brake stuff and axle. edit- remove everything on passenger side, slide passenger side outer and inner axle out several inches to disengage the inner from the diff. then remove the diff cover, bearing caps, pull the diff out. --there it is, a $5 seal--. my diff didn't come out easily, but i used Sheriff's trick of wrapping a soft pull strap around the diff and attaching it to a comealong. that popped it out.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
 

Last edited by dhvaughan; 12-18-2013 at 07:00 PM.
  #22  
Old 12-18-2013 | 06:59 PM
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and in order to get the carrier out, you need to pull the passenger side axle as well.
 
  #23  
Old 12-18-2013 | 06:59 PM
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Well 4X4 is working all back to normal. Next issue. Front drivers side axle seal. Was leaking before and now after changing wheel bearings seems to be leaking even worse. Can't even keep up with topping up the diff. I've read lots on this. Doesn't seem very too hard. Do I have to touch the passenger side hub assembly and remove axle to just replace the drivers side seal? Don't want to touch it as the pasenger side has never leaked since I've owned the truck.
 
  #24  
Old 12-18-2013 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
and in order to get the carrier out, you need to pull the passenger side axle as well.
yes, i missed that step and added it in.
so you get to dismantle the entire front drive train to replace a $5 drivers side seal. you might as well replace the other $5 seal on the passenger side.
 
  #25  
Old 12-18-2013 | 07:41 PM
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I had both seals done about 3 years ago as the drivers side was leaking when I bought it. Drivers side started leaking months later. I understand the diff comes right out to access the seal. Thats why I don't want to touch that side if I don't have too. Do both axles need to be pulled out to change the drivers side?
 
  #26  
Old 12-18-2013 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by crpunt618
I had both seals done about 3 years ago as the drivers side was leaking when I bought it. Drivers side started leaking months later. I understand the diff comes right out to access the seal. Thats why I don't want to touch that side if I don't have too. Do both axles need to be pulled out to change the drivers side?

Yes..
 
  #27  
Old 12-18-2013 | 08:00 PM
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Sorry, yea my computers lagging and not updating by the time I'm getting responses. Sounds like a whole lot of fun. Thanks for the links. Will contemplate this over the next little while. Also I topped the diff up today and it was quite low. Had my finger in and couldn't even touch oil. Would that be too low to run with if I left it?
 
  #28  
Old 12-18-2013 | 08:15 PM
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Stick something else in there, and see how low it really is.
 
  #29  
Old 12-18-2013 | 10:17 PM
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Well i'm going to just run it low for now to get through the holidays. In the new year i'll look at changing it. Just did the wheel bearing hubs so should go pretty fast. Never been inside a diff yet so be neat to see how it all works. Better a 10 dollar fix then close to a grand, especially around this time of year.
 
  #30  
Old 12-18-2013 | 10:41 PM
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make a dipstick out of a flexible wire, maybe the white clad electrical wire out of a piece of romex. fish it down to the bottom and know for sure.
the fill plug is at about the 2/3 height mark of the pumpkin.
i'd want the oil level to be at least half full, and say 2 inches below the fill hole. check it frequently. if the seals are not torn all to hell, you MIGHT get lucky and find that the leak will stabilize at that point.

pay attention to it. you don't want to be coming back in two weeks saying - my front end diff is burned up...
 



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