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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #21  
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im saving my pennies so im hoing to start getting parts after the holidays & then its just tearin her down. But ill keep u guys updated on the progress & might try to take pics as i go if i can grab a extra set of hands
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 02:34 PM
  #22  
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finally got my hughes kit ordered this mornin, only a few more thing left to grab >another question: im not planning on completly disconnecting my fuel rail, rather just remove injectors from i.m. & set aside (new o rings of course).. if i do things this way will i still have to do 'relieve fuel pressure procedure'?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Yes. Its actually easier to disconnect the fuel line from the rail, and just leave the injectors in the manifold. They hang on REALLY tight.....

You can get the tool for about 15 bucks at the parts store, and it also works on the quick-connects for the trans lines.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 02:47 PM
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I got a plastic one from O'Reillys for ~$3, worked fine and it's bright yellow, harder to lose.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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I bought mine when trying to do the check valve in the trans line, and the plastic feller, because of the way it was designed, wouldn't fit in the space available, so, I had to get the more expensive aluminum one.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 12:24 PM
  #26  
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cool i actually just had to grab a set of them when i did my radiator (didnt know what size so i got the pack lol).. anywhere i need to 'release pressure' from before i undo the quick connect? >my concern with leaving the injectors in manifold is i dont want to risk any damage to em while im scrubbing the i.m. clean.. (thinkin ill scrub all that carbon with diesel or something likewise)
 

Last edited by baymaven11; Jan 4, 2014 at 12:30 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 12:32 PM
  #27  
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Stick a key or small screwdriver or something in the schrader valve, that'll release the pressure.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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You can also pull the fuel pump relay and try starting the motor, this will release fuel psi as well, should be one of your first steps before starting this job. Leave the injectors in the im as posted, once the im is off remove the injectors, replace the o-rings, change the little filters in the top of the injectors. The best way to clean the im is take it to a shop that has a hot tank for cleaning parts.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:18 PM
  #29  
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hey guys! finally got all my parts together for hughes plenum repair, just waiting out this crazy weather (no heated garage).. driving truck as little as i can but im starting to wonder if i dont have another problem also (trying to cover all bases) so im starting to suspect my timing chain also, was wondering if theres a way to check if its going bad (cant really hear over exhaust lol) without tearing into it & looking for slack? -figure if i need to put in new timing chain then doin it during plenum job would be perfect time ;-)
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by baymaven11
hey guys! finally got all my parts together for hughes plenum repair, just waiting out this crazy weather (no heated garage).. driving truck as little as i can but im starting to wonder if i dont have another problem also (trying to cover all bases) so im starting to suspect my timing chain also, was wondering if theres a way to check if its going bad (cant really hear over exhaust lol) without tearing into it & looking for slack? -figure if i need to put in new timing chain then doin it during plenum job would be perfect time ;-)
I am getting ready to do mine, take the serpentine belt off, and grasp the crank pulley with both hands from under the truck, if it has more than like 1/8 inches of play, the timing chain is slacked out, if you have over 100 thousand miles it's probably toast, also you'll be able to reaseal the timing cover which is a big spot for leaks (mine is leaking)
 
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