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Picking a cam for torque

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #31  
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[QUOTE=merc225hp;3112232]Fwiw the M1 goes great with just a set of rr's and a tune, been there done that and more. If you don't have an M1 don't speculate as to what it will and won't do, it needs some basic mods but not like you think.
x2 if you never ran a m1,RR,AIR CRAP or any part,mod,repair ect ect on a dodge ram magnum motor please dont comment/AND OR speculate.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #32  
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I trust is knowledge on that particular subject.

I ordered this yesterday:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...iew/make/dodge

It was between that and the 602 from them...and this won out.

I am still looking at 1.7HS RRs with aftermarket valve springs...later on if I want to rebuild the engine I can reuse the cam, lifters and RRs.

I have to measure the pushrods but I will be replacing them with hardened rods. Been alot of hemming and hawing at things and I think for sure I will start with the cam and kegger mod. If I am happy with it, great. If not, then the next steps involve pulling the engine for more work. I'm dead set on 400 ft lbs engine torque at or before 3200RPMs. Part of getting there is an excellent exhaust and a cam profile made to scavenge out the exhaust...I will keep the shorty headers and MAYBE redo header back with mandrel pieces and some shop time welding it all together.

Also on the list is tuning, I think I will simply have hemifever do it as I have hp tuners and efilive (I do tuning myself) and I just dont see investing in DCX at this point.

Things I have already:

Stainless Ebay shorty headers modified to flow better (the inside of the primary weld is ground and properly welded)
Volant Intake
Modified TB (Top tapered bores)
4.88s
E fans
175 degree t stat
Denso wide band O2 sensor and narrow band with cat delete and 02 simulator.
Already SCT tuned for 87 (mostly for third gear tcc lock)

Other bits to add, most of the important sensors have been tested for accuracy and/or replaced (My coolant temp sensor was 35 degrees too cold...according to two different IR temp guns, improved my mileage a FULL mpg)
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #33  
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If you going to reuse your old heads I have a set of unused Hughes springs, keepers, seals, retainers. I could give you a killer deal if you want them.
I didn't use them cause I bought the EQs instead
Got it all from Richard at Hi-Potek 9 months ago.

What I paid:
Hughes Springs $94.40
Keepers $25.00
Seals $31.84
Retainers $64.00

If interested in any PM me and make an offer. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #34  
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Correct me if I am wrong but .480 is fine on factory springs. If I can find new/lightly used HS 1.7s I will hit you up.
 

Last edited by army_greywolf; Dec 22, 2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 08:15 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by army_greywolf
Correct me if I am wrong but .480 is fine on factory springs. If I can find new/lightly used HS 1.7s I will hit you up.
it says right on the cams page on summit, stock springs cannot be used.

also, you wont be seeing 400 ft lbs with that set up. youre going to need an intake manifold, and 1.7s. im right around 450 tq i that, with my mods.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #36  
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I think I can push 400 ft lbs...we will see. I'm high now, 288 ft lbs at the rear. Figure my drivetrain loss is about 17% according to the dyno.
 

Last edited by army_greywolf; Dec 23, 2013 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 05:05 PM
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I don't think you will get it with just the cam and rr's. I do like what you are trying and look forward to seeing real dyno results, they are far and few here.

Some spec's of one of Ma Mopars 5.9 create motors (Carb spec's not using mpi). It can be done just need the right parts.

Valves (I/E) (in.): 1.925 / 1.625
Block: Cast Iron
Dur. @ 0.050 I/E: 288 / 292
Camshaft Lift (in.) I/E: 0.501 / 0.513
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1
Crankshaft: Cast, 3.580 in.
Heads, Chamber Size: Cast Iron
Horsepower: 380 @ 5300 RPM
Intake Manifold: M1 Aluminum Dual Plane
Torque: 410 ft/lbs @ 4400 RPM
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Dec 23, 2013 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 05:25 PM
  #38  
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Well, my motor is healthy enough for 335-340 engine torque now...internally nothing has been done to it. If I dont make my goal, I'll swap EQ heads and try again, the kegger is the key to getting torque as low as possible imho. I don't even have the msd 6a nor have my injectors been cleaned, never been seafoamed and the dyno was done BEFORE the transmission was rebuilt. I know there is more power now, can physically feel it. I'm stoked, I think 400 is going to happen.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Well they come from the factory with 330 ft.lb so your dyno numbers show you are just over stock ratings. A msd is not going to add any hp/tq, cleaned injectors maybe 2hp at best.

Again I look forward to seeing your dyno sheets after the cam/rr's install.

Info taken from http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/5_9v8.htm

Engine Type
360 cid 90' V-8 OHV
Bore & Stroke
4.00 x 3.58 in. (101.6 x 90.9 mm.)
Displacement
360 cu.in. (5.9 L)
Compression Ratio 9.1 :1
Horsepower 245 hp @4000 rpm
Torque 330 ft. lbs. (448 N.m) @ 3250 rpm
 
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:46 AM
  #40  
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Yea, well I'm fairly certain with some TLC and the newly rebuilt transmission that will be gains of it's own. I really expect to break 315 wtq if I went back to the dyno right now.

Another thing...I will dyno on 93 octane and we will see what hemifever can do for me come april. The heads may come off to be checked, if at the very least the casting around the stems will be cleaned up, whatever I can do in a weekend.
 

Last edited by army_greywolf; Dec 24, 2013 at 12:48 AM.
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