OK, I have a 2001 Ram 1500, 5.2L, 2WD. I am having an issue with it being hard to start and running rich. It is running rich enough that it is smoking and you can smell the gas. It is not throwing any codes but the problem is getting worse. I am thinking I have an injector leaking down as it sits and possibly flooding that cylinder, making it hard to start. Then, of course it can't burn that much fuel at once so it causes it to smoke. Also, it runs the slightest bit rough when you first start it up. Really have to pay attention to even notice it. What is the easiest way to see if I have an injector leaking down. Pull the plugs and turn it over to see if I have gas flinging from one of the holes? I have all the tools I need to do whatever tests needed EXCEPT the pressure tester. Really need one of those. I DO have the voltmeter and all that so I can run electrical tests. Just need the guidance. I really must get this fixed. Has to be rough on the engine.

 

According to your other threads (3) about this, you have checked the fuel psi already. I can find the info in the FSM on how to do these tests, I was in the 96 fsm and found it on page 1243 section 14-8

 

Hard to start how? Turns over slow? Or long crank time before it actually fires up?

 

Long crank time before starting
I tested the resistance on the injectors down the drivers side. They ranged from 11.4 up to 12.7. Then when I got to the passenger side I smelled gas. I started taking plugs out to try to narrow it down to one cylinder. When I removed the plugs to cylinders 4 and 6, I found the plugs had a split positive electrode. I tried to get a pic of it but its just too small. I have replaced all the plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor, along with the plenum fix in the last year. Well, checked all the plugs and seem to have one more oily plug on the number 8 cylinder. This does not bode well. I will try to keep cleaning and driving till I can find the funds to do a complete go-thru. Figure it at least needs a head rebuild and re-ring. May as well do the entire engine if I am that far into it.

 

Don't bother rebuilding the heads. Just replace them when the time comes. There are much better castings available, run around 600 for a pair. (fully loaded.)

fouled plugs may be rings.....

Are all you spark plugs the same? (as in: manufacturer, model number, etc.)

 

All the same. NGKs. Like I said, just about a year old. I did all that (plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor) at the same time I did the plenum fix. Told my wife it may be the rings. She said "Rebuild it, build it up a little." I have the best wife.
What are some of the more tried and true replacement heads that people like? I am looking to build (when I get to it) for a bit more torque. For me, horsepower is a meaningless number. Its my daily driver. I will be towing a 24' camper and want to build up the engine with the torque to get the job done. AT SOME POINT, I will also be rebuilding the trans. I have heard there is a kit to rebuild with that makes it pretty bulletproof, but that's a ways off. Trans is fine now.

 

The odessa/clearwater heads are the best price. They are NEW castings, with thicker decks. Much less prone to cracking than the stockers.

For a torque build, I would bump compression a bit. (advertised 9:1 stock..... I would go 9.5, and you should still be able to run on 87 octane.)

Cam, something in the idle to 5000 RPM range, or 1500-5000 range. Make sure that the heads are prepped for the lift of the cam you choose. (most makers will have a recommended set of valve springs as well. get them.)

Tune from Hemifever is a must. More power, and gets rid of torque management. That in and of itself is a worthwhile investment.

Double roller timing chain.....

M1, or Hughes intake? Sure, they compromise a bit of low end, BUT, the other improvements working with a better breathing manifold will more than offset any loss.

Free flowing exhaust. Long-tubes are best for bottom end torque. Of course, so are smaller primary tubes. (1.5 inch.) The only longtubes I have been able to find for our trucks are the Pacesetter, 1 5/8ths primaries. Not ideal, but, better than stock. Follow that with true duals, 2.25 inch pipe please.... no larger than 2.5. (smaller would actually be better in this case.) Or, a single three inch system... from the headers back.

Muffler of your choice, they make zero difference in power/torque output. Its all about the sound.

I am still debating on whether to use larger valve heads or not. They breath better, but, you get better flow velocity out of the smaller valves at low RPM. Which is really what you want in a torque build..... Jury is still out on that one. Of course, the big valve heads are closer to a grand from Odessa/Clearwater..... so, that's a consideration as well. It's a choice between better bottom end grunt, or, a bit more power in the mid- to high- rpm range......

 

Some nice info there. Definitely saving that post for reference. I am gonna be looking to squeeze as much torque as I can for the best budget. Kind of a best bang for the buck kinda build. Once I get my Jeep back on the road I can afford the downtime on the truck to get things started. I am nervous (first engine rebuild in over 20 years) and excited.

 

If you don't wanna take the truck off the road for an extended period, just pick up a good core motor to rebuild, and then swap 'em when the time comes. I see to have two..... one out of a 95, the other out of a 97? I think. The newer motor has fewer miles on it, and looks to be in better condition. It may end up going in before the rebuild though, as my current motor exhibits some truly odd behavior once in a while.

 

Think that is what I will do. If I am gonna replace the heads, all I need is the block. All the internals will wind up being replaced. Thanks for the advice. As I said, I will definitely save these posts for future reference.