Tranny Check valve deleted but still hot
Thanks to the fine DIY's by purpldodge and aim4squirrels, (look them up) I deleted my checkball valve. However, put me on the list of owners who's trans temp, and od off, lights are still on. I had the tranny inspected, fluid changed, and the shop said everything looks fine. Anyone think of something else that could be wrong?
My PCM is faulty (according to shop) and being replaced. Other than that the coolant seems to have a black sooty substance in it even after being flushed.
My PCM is faulty (according to shop) and being replaced. Other than that the coolant seems to have a black sooty substance in it even after being flushed.
Last edited by jwalkanime; Jan 9, 2014 at 02:55 PM.
After about five minutes the od off comes on then the tranny temp shortly after.
On my transmission the gov pressure solenoid and transducer/temp sensor are seperate? I have the same year as his.
Best thing to do is get yourself a IR temp gun and check your in and out cooler lines to see what temp they actually are at before you start throwing parts at it. Check them at the transmission right on the fittings from a few inches away. You might have a toasted TC and that would have transducer temps that get very high very fast when driving (minutes).
For me, I bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321082407626?lpid=82 And that brings up my O/D by the time the engine reaches a 120 degrees rather than waiting a long time. My coolers are aux then rad to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.
Best thing to do is get yourself a IR temp gun and check your in and out cooler lines to see what temp they actually are at before you start throwing parts at it. Check them at the transmission right on the fittings from a few inches away. You might have a toasted TC and that would have transducer temps that get very high very fast when driving (minutes).
For me, I bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321082407626?lpid=82 And that brings up my O/D by the time the engine reaches a 120 degrees rather than waiting a long time. My coolers are aux then rad to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.
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What was the problem before removing the one way check valve? You should have a button to turn the O/D lamp on or off. Also check the wire connection at the top of the transmission case that plugged into the valve body.
On my transmission the gov pressure solenoid and transducer/temp sensor are seperate? I have the same year as his.
Best thing to do is get yourself a IR temp gun and check your in and out cooler lines to see what temp they actually are at before you start throwing parts at it. Check them at the transmission right on the fittings from a few inches away. You might have a toasted TC and that would have transducer temps that get very high very fast when driving (minutes).
For me, I bought this: Transmission Cooler Thermal Bypass Valve by Long Free Domestic Shipping | eBay And that brings up my O/D by the time the engine reaches a 120 degrees rather than waiting a long time. My coolers are aux then rad to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.
Best thing to do is get yourself a IR temp gun and check your in and out cooler lines to see what temp they actually are at before you start throwing parts at it. Check them at the transmission right on the fittings from a few inches away. You might have a toasted TC and that would have transducer temps that get very high very fast when driving (minutes).
For me, I bought this: Transmission Cooler Thermal Bypass Valve by Long Free Domestic Shipping | eBay And that brings up my O/D by the time the engine reaches a 120 degrees rather than waiting a long time. My coolers are aux then rad to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.







