I agree, something is getting warm, and failing.

Try driving it with O2 sensor unplugged. See if you make it past the ten minute barrier.

 

could be a bad crank sensor the first time mine went out my truck would run fine until it got to operating temp then would either loose throttle control or simply just shutdown all together and not restart but if i let it cool down completely it would start up rough but run fine.

 

checked fuel pressure, it stayed at 39 psi while running and initial pressure was 35 at start.....


Is there anyway to check the crank sensor or did you just swap it and see if it worked?? Did a throw any specific codes?

 

I'm following this like a hawk. I have exactly the same thing happening to me with my '01 5.9. When it's running normally, everything is fine. About 10 minutes in is when it hits me too. I'll be sitting a traffic light, and suddenly the RPMs drop to 400-500 and hunt around a little, and the loud whooshing I hear only when I'm putting my foot down getting onto the highway slowly becomes present. Then, when I try to go, it has no power, backfires through the throttle body, and the only way I can get movement is pumping the pedal. Then, for no obvious reason, it is instantly resolved and runs fine. The intermittent thing is what always frustrates me. I like when something is wrong for it to be wrong all the time, until I fix it. Like an exhaust leak or a flat tire.

 

There is a test you can do with a multimeter, but, for it to prove anything, sensor has to be in failure mode..... and even then, it is no guarantee...... (if it test good, that does not necessarily imply that it is, indeed, 'good'.)

Oscilloscope would be a sure way. Good luck finding someone that has one though....

You could hook a timing light to the coil wire, and see if you are getting consistent spark or not.... that might at least be a clue.

 

yeah I found no way to test it I had to swap it out. I fought this for a good couple weeks until I de iced to replace it pay the money and get a good name one I bought a cheap one that ended up being bad so I originally did not think that was the problem. the first time this happened to me and was more of an intermittent problem the actual sensor was burnt and cracked so it wouldn't act up until it got hot

 

R2 crank sensor, ops ck good!


so far anyway, I just used an Advanceauto BWD sensor, $42 after 20% online special.


I did find procedures in my Haynes manual for checking the sensor for voltages after the fact, but just in case anybody else wants them, if you don't have a Haynes manual, I guess I could hand jam them in this thread.


That sensor was an absolute pain in the @$$ to replace, I had the EGR tube in the way, had to bend the auto dipstick out of the way too. It was a 1/4" allen stock.


Thanks for the help again, I'll post updates in a week or so.

 

Yeah, they put that thing in a REALLY inconvenient location... unless you drive a van.

 

I'll second that! Pain in the ... I've done mine a few times it gets easier! Haha I hope that it fixes your problem

 

My truck was doing the same and it can be like a dog chasing it's own tail. After some wasted money it ended up being dirty and clogged up injectors. Check them out.