Shorted out my ignition circuit...
#1
Shorted out my ignition circuit...
Working on installing a remote starter today and accidentally shorted out the main ignition wire (from switch to power distribution center.) between my splice for the remote start and the frame of the truck. Saw a small spark, heard a pop, and smelled a burnt fuse.
Just to check, put the key in the ignition and everything works on the accessory setting and on the run setting, but the start switch is completely dead.
Checked all fuses, both visually and with multimeter. Everything checks out. Checked the entire fuse box under the hood, everything checks out. I have good continuity throughout the cab. But I still don't have 12 volts on that circuit.
Are there any simple fixes I'm missing? Some fuse that's in an odd place? A fuse able link somewhere? A circuit breaker?
Why don't I have 12 volts on that battery circuit?
Just to check, put the key in the ignition and everything works on the accessory setting and on the run setting, but the start switch is completely dead.
Checked all fuses, both visually and with multimeter. Everything checks out. Checked the entire fuse box under the hood, everything checks out. I have good continuity throughout the cab. But I still don't have 12 volts on that circuit.
Are there any simple fixes I'm missing? Some fuse that's in an odd place? A fuse able link somewhere? A circuit breaker?
Why don't I have 12 volts on that battery circuit?
Last edited by Twmays; 01-20-2014 at 10:00 AM.
#2
Alright guys, really need some help here - this is my dd.
Replaced *all* the fuses in the truck (that I can find.)
Again, tested continuity throughout the cab and throughout the engine compartment.
Battery has good voltage.
All other systems work as normal.
Looking at the wiring diagram, there is no reason why I shouldn't be getting 12 volts on that wire.
If you have an idea, let me know.
Replaced *all* the fuses in the truck (that I can find.)
Again, tested continuity throughout the cab and throughout the engine compartment.
Battery has good voltage.
All other systems work as normal.
Looking at the wiring diagram, there is no reason why I shouldn't be getting 12 volts on that wire.
If you have an idea, let me know.
#4
Ok, I am going to take a wild stab in the dark here, and guess you aren't getting power on the red wire to the ignition switch? That goes thru fuse 10, in the PDC, and runs off to Connector 134, which I think is the fat connector under the PDC..... pic really isn't all that informative. From there, it runs unbroken to the ignition switch. if you aren't getting power there..... and the fuse has been replaced, might need to dismount the PDC, flip it over, and verify that connection there is still good.
Do you get 12 volts TO fuse 10?
Do you get 12 volts TO fuse 10?
#5
Alright.
The problem is a no-start on the truck. Turn the key, and get no response whatsoever. All other systems (lights, radio, horn, etc) work, but the truck does not turn over when i turn the key. Doesn't even try.
I was trying to install a remote start kit when I accidentally grounded out the red ignition switch wire coming off the steering column under the dash to the frame. Had a spark. Then I tried to start the truck, and got no response.
I've tested a few things, and I know that I have no volts/no power on that red under-dash ignition wire.
I do have 12 volts to fuse 10 under the hood.
All connections look good, and I can tell it's not a short in the cab because I have continuity through all the relevant wires.
I have also tried to bypass the starter relay by jumping pins 30 and 87 directly, and got it to crank, but not fire.
Is the PCM involved in starting?
The problem is a no-start on the truck. Turn the key, and get no response whatsoever. All other systems (lights, radio, horn, etc) work, but the truck does not turn over when i turn the key. Doesn't even try.
I was trying to install a remote start kit when I accidentally grounded out the red ignition switch wire coming off the steering column under the dash to the frame. Had a spark. Then I tried to start the truck, and got no response.
I've tested a few things, and I know that I have no volts/no power on that red under-dash ignition wire.
I do have 12 volts to fuse 10 under the hood.
All connections look good, and I can tell it's not a short in the cab because I have continuity through all the relevant wires.
I have also tried to bypass the starter relay by jumping pins 30 and 87 directly, and got it to crank, but not fire.
Is the PCM involved in starting?
#6
Ok, you have power at the fuse, and the wire tests good for continuity, but, you still don't get power to it with everything hooked up? That's just bizarre.
If you have another fuse for that spot, swap it out. (just in case. I know you already did this once.)
That wire also powers various other things required for the engine to run. (it runs off to the junction block.... (half dozen or so fuses get their power from that circuit.) Fix that one, and it should solve the rest of your issues.
If you put a jumper in place of fuse 10, do you get power at the ignition switch? (don't leave it there long.....)
If you have another fuse for that spot, swap it out. (just in case. I know you already did this once.)
That wire also powers various other things required for the engine to run. (it runs off to the junction block.... (half dozen or so fuses get their power from that circuit.) Fix that one, and it should solve the rest of your issues.
If you put a jumper in place of fuse 10, do you get power at the ignition switch? (don't leave it there long.....)
#7